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really grimy, rusty neglected chains

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I use mineral spirits for the grease removal phase and soak and scrub. I followup with WD40 for the final cleaning.
 
Any solution is messy.
Manual brushing causes tendonitis.

Get yourself a motor (bench grinder) and use a soft 6" wire wheel and run it outside in a non trafficked area.
Knocks off the rust and caked on grease even in the crevices and leaves a thin coat on that is needed.
Be careful in letting the wheel do the work and only a small section at a time holding firmly.

Chris
 
Goof Off

I just cleaned a 70 year old rusty, road grime covered chain with Goof Off. Put it in a bucket sprayed it down swished it around a couple of minutes. Took the chain out wiped it down. Its free moving and looks great.

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Goof Off is great....

But I'd only use it outdoors or in very well ventilated areas, that stuff is toxic to your lungs and brain....

Darcie
 
I have done three old chains so far with great results. I have la's all purpose cleaner and degreaser concentrate (dollar store), cheap no phosphate laundry detergent, and oxalic acid crystals. Baking soda, brass bristle brushes, two or three containers, sink, hot water, long fishing out bit for rust bath part removal. Gloves! Oxalic acid is bad for livers, and skin. Gloves!

1) remove chain from bike, place in straight batch la's and laundry soap for 4-6 hours.
2) rinse, use brass bristle brush on all chain surfaces.
3) 1:1:1/2 water, la's, laundry soap in water tight wide mouth jar you don't mind screwing up.
4) Shake, rattle, and roll jar at 10-20 minute intervals (when you remember it :) )
5) after 2 hours or so (mine have sat for two days when I was sick) drain, rinse, brush, rinse, and ensure there's no oil, grease, or lubricant left.
6) mix oxalic acid crystals with hot water to preferred strength. Add chain, and wait twenty minutes. (Bath should start turning yellow after 20 minutes, if not add more hot water dissolved crystals.
7) remove chain with stick/tongs/spare wrench, and place in baking soda water (will sizzle a bit)
8) wash in hot soapy water, work each link to ensure free movement. (Links may seize up, two of mine did, and that's okay, details at bottom)
9) if clean and de rusty enough, dry, lube, install
10) enjoy nice clean chain

Things to not panic over:

The chain may freeze up during the oa bath cycle(s). The oa makes mineral salts out of the rust, and it looks like white/yellow/green sludge/paste/slime. Since it's inside the rollers (if there's rust in there) it can seize up the links. The longer the chain sits undisturbed the more likely it will seize up due to build up. 20 minutes is good, because the links don't have time to seize. You can jiggle, shake, and rotate the chain to keep it from sticking if the first 20 isn't enough time. The brush will remove the surface layer of sludge. You will see it coming out of the rollers, and the hot soapy bath and agitation will remove the internal deposits. Lubing and riding will ensure any residue will come out.

I use wd-40 post cleaning to expel water and residues from anything I missed. I follow up with 3-1 WD-40 lubricating oil, and recheck my lube job every third ride to ensure I did it right. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have questions.
 
finnally someone brought up that acid eats metal and if it isnt totally nueutale it keeps on eating,if you see what it can do to metal think what it can do to parts of your body,first,acid doesnt remove grease,use something sane to remove old grease[wd 40 is mostly keroene or diesle fuel]after ithe part is degreased put it in one of the new SAFE derusters that are out,i use evaporust,no more russian rolette for me
 
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