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Reproducing grips....help

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There’s a few ways to go about this. I used to source all the grips for S&M bike co, and I’ve done casting and printing so here’s the options as I see it:

Casting: make a mold of an existing grip, then pour urathane rubber compound for your grips. Smooth-On makes great casting supplies and can help you choose what’s best. This would be the cheapest option.

Printing: You can print rubber in different durometers (hardnesses). You would need some one to create a digital file of the grip, then have them printed (craftcloud online could be used as a source if you don’t know a local printing facility)

Injection molding: this is how actual bicycle grips are made. A metal mold is made, which is quite expensive, and then the rubber is injected into the mold making the grip. ODI in Riverside CA is who I sourced from for S&M.

Hope this helps
 
There’s a few ways to go about this. I used to source all the grips for S&M bike co, and I’ve done casting and printing so here’s the options as I see it:

Casting: make a mold of an existing grip, then pour urathane rubber compound for your grips. Smooth-On makes great casting supplies and can help you choose what’s best. This would be the cheapest option.

Printing: You can print rubber in different durometers (hardnesses). You would need some one to create a digital file of the grip, then have them printed (craftcloud online could be used as a source if you don’t know a local printing facility)

Injection molding: this is how actual bicycle grips are made. A metal mold is made, which is quite expensive, and then the rubber is injected into the mold making the grip. ODI in Riverside CA is who I sourced from for S&M.

Hope this helps


Thus is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for chiming in. I appreciate the help!!
 
Natural latex rubber was used in old grips. The natural rubber was part of what gave them their look and feel, in addition to the way the rubber was processed and manufactured into the grips. You'll have to be selective in the material you use for modern reproductions. Some foreign-made grips were celluloid or even cardboard coated in an early plastic material.

I'm with you in that I ride my bikes a lot and I don't care for petrified original grips for riding. They don't absorb road shock enough for my liking. I do a lot of state and local roads with steep hills and rotten surface maintenance (I have mostly "lightweight" 3 speed bikes). Supple grips are more comfortable, but finding good reproductions is not easy. For example, I like the feel of the teardrop Schwinn reproductions that BicycleBones sells on eBay. On the other hand, I don't like the "jelly" Schwinn oval grips that were reproduced in the 1990s (they feel too soft for me for a Schwinn grip).

I have never had luck with the thin, PVC grips produced in Asia. I bought several sets from Thailand, and they're just bad. They don't capture the look or feel of original grips. On the other hand, Peter Kohler produced some killer Lee-Healey British reproduction grips that replicate the thick and supple grips used on the mid and late 1950s British bikes. He had his material right and the cheap-o far east reproducers did not.

There's always a market for good grips and good tires because they're "wear items" that get replaced periodically (tires more so than grips, but they all wear out). The market just isn't huge enough to make much money. Reproducing both in good quality is a worthy project, but not easy. I agree with the post farther up discussing use of a proper metal mold and good materials. I don't think cheaping out in set up is the way to go. I think if you're going to go, go the full length with good tools and materials.
 
Hey here are injection molds in this post...a example of how they were made.



Jamie

grip molds.jpeg
 
The material for casting , if you go that route, is going to be one of the more interesting aspects. I have cast a few pieces over the past few years and the people who have a lot of info on softer rubber molded parts are the guys making custom fishing lures. I used Alumalite products for some of my experiments and they have a lot of useful info and materials to check out. The flexible ruber urethane mixes come in different shore harnesses anywhere from 20 - 80. Virtually any color can be made with pigments.

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Making the molds takes some skill and getting bubble free results is also a challenge. Pressure pot and vacuum chambers can be your friends.

Pressure pot smashes all the bubbles down so they are tiny while the material cures. You can find a lot of info online about converting a Harbor Freight paint sprayer into a 50psi safe pressure pot.
IMG_9886.jpeg


@PlasticNerd is another mold maker here.
 
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I have been playing around with it for a while now. Fun little side projects. I recents made a few grips to look old and cracked. Turned out pretty good. Also can be a good way to make a pair out of a single. I use polytek products. Not really looking to make a ton. It is expensive, and I’m a perfectionist and the molds have some issues. I still have a lot to learn!!

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