Schwinn Sprint freewheel removal

[GTs58]

I still can’t seem to find the tool. Can someone link me to it? Or does someone have a freewheel they would sell me? Or both?

Still dealing with the freewheel huh? In this thread, post #6 has a pic of the tool with a retaining lip. That helps tremendously and the tools that don't have the retaining lip can slip even if using it properly. Here's your freewheel that's for sale on eBay and it has been pre-messed up for you.

Here's a tool with the retaining lip. But be warned, sometimes the prongs will be either too wide, too short or more commonly too long. I've purchased multiple two prong tools that were said to be correct and not one actually fit or worked. Here's a tool on ebay that is said to be for
pre-1985 Shimano, Regina and has the needed retaining lip. I would take some measurements on your freewheel and then verify with the seller that this will fit correctly.

Bicycle Research Pre 1985 Shimano, Regina Notched - Freewheel Remover- New - NOS | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bicycle Research Pre 1985 Shimano, Regina Notched - Freewheel Remover- New - NOS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[J-wagon]

Here another maybe

Cyclus Tools Freewheel / Cassette Remover 4/5/6-speed | Regina, Atom, Suntour 8590831431279 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Cyclus Tools Freewheel / Cassette Remover 4/5/6-speed | Regina, Atom, Suntour at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

Having a removal tool that has the retaining ring is nice "if it fits", but many do not fit for various reasons. Even the perfect factory tool will not fit a "previously messed up freewheel". I would not get hung up on finding the 100% correct remover.

Here's what you need, just the basic's.
1) If you look at many of these tools, they have a large bored recessed hole on the back side. This hole was designed to fit snuggly over the shouldered axle spacer. The tool piolets on the shouldered spacer. It's important to have the spacer screwed on when using the style tool with a large hole in the back. The spacer helps keep the tool centered. Note, some tools do not have a large hole and require the removal of the spacer. You cannot mix them up.

2) When removing any freewheel without splines (basically all the old style ones) you MUST use an axle nut to support the remover on the axle. Just snug it up, place the remover and the wheel upside down in a large vise, make sure the freewheel is sitting all the way down to the vise jaws for resting support, rotate the wheel counterclockwise just a quarter turn, then stop. You just want to break it loose. Remove the wheel from the vise and loosen the axle nut a little and repeat the above process. It makes it easier to keep the tool centered in the freewheel if you rotate the wheel and NOT just pull on one side.

3) Millions of "old style freewheels" have been removed by this process. I agree they are a PITA, and that's the reason the manufacturers eventually adopted the spline style, but they will still come off.

4) I'm confused, I thought you had already taken the old freewheel apart? If only the freewheel body is left screwed on to the hub you do not need any tool to remove it. Just use some brass jaws in your vise, clamp it in the pawl spring cutouts and twist away.

John