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Sturmey Archer 3-speed 36H hub, drilled for heavy duty 12 gauge (2.6mm) spokes
- Thread starter ejlwheels
- Start date
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chichm
Look Ma, No Hands!
I checked, the only 12 ga hub is 40 spoke.
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
The only steel Sturmey hubs I have seen have been drilled up in a back shop, not factory drilled. I believe your only factory drilled options are later model aluminum hubs.
Using one of these is problematic though since they are wider...and that requires spreading/cold setting of the frame and realignment of the drop outs....plus that hub needs special controls that are different than vintage stuff and they arent included with it.
Using one of these is problematic though since they are wider...and that requires spreading/cold setting of the frame and realignment of the drop outs....plus that hub needs special controls that are different than vintage stuff and they arent included with it.
ejlwheels
Wore out three sets of tires already!
I would think that heavy duty spokes would make 36h adequate, 40h being overkill.
If I drill a standard 36h hub, I worry that it might not be safe?
I think the rim might have come to me with something like a Centrix one speed that I disassebled
maybe 20 years ago.
To make a pair, I have a 32h heavy duty front wheel that I think is factory original.
Rims are 28" Westwood rod brake, by the way
If I drill a standard 36h hub, I worry that it might not be safe?
I think the rim might have come to me with something like a Centrix one speed that I disassebled
maybe 20 years ago.
To make a pair, I have a 32h heavy duty front wheel that I think is factory original.
Rims are 28" Westwood rod brake, by the way
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Think about this...when you lace the wheel, are you using radial lacing that will pull completely perpendicular to the hub flange where the thin metal is? Or will you be lacing tangent to the hub using 3X? With spokes laced tangent to the hub, how will that tension be pulling on the thin part of the metal??
I bought a wheel that already had the drum hub drilled and laced up with a tandem rim. They didn't chamfer the edges of the spoke holes after drilling them up for larger spokes and a handful of spokes broke at the j-bend. Those broke because of the sharp edges causing stress risers. You have to carefully use a ball end burr in a dremel or similar tool to remove the sharp edges if that is the route you want to take.
Also, are you OK with flaking chrome after the drilling? ...that's what ends up happening. And is this going to be a bike that gets beat around by someone working in a factory? Or standard commuting?
I'm not sure what bike you are working on, but the vintage wheel sets I have found with 32h front hubs have had 40h rear hubs. I would want to confirm the diameter of the front spokes and what wheels were original to your model of bike.
Just things to ponder...
I bought a wheel that already had the drum hub drilled and laced up with a tandem rim. They didn't chamfer the edges of the spoke holes after drilling them up for larger spokes and a handful of spokes broke at the j-bend. Those broke because of the sharp edges causing stress risers. You have to carefully use a ball end burr in a dremel or similar tool to remove the sharp edges if that is the route you want to take.
Also, are you OK with flaking chrome after the drilling? ...that's what ends up happening. And is this going to be a bike that gets beat around by someone working in a factory? Or standard commuting?
I'm not sure what bike you are working on, but the vintage wheel sets I have found with 32h front hubs have had 40h rear hubs. I would want to confirm the diameter of the front spokes and what wheels were original to your model of bike.
Just things to ponder...
ejlwheels
Wore out three sets of tires already!
always tangent, so I see your point about pulling against roughly the same amount of metal as pre hole enlargement.
a chamfer or small amount of Countersink on one side (alternating) also makes sense
don't care about flaking once/if I decide to alter/sacrifice a hub by drilling
prefer to find an old beat up factory drilled hub if such a thing exists
all my machines are personal/aesthetic and are rotated and only ridden occasionally
a chamfer or small amount of Countersink on one side (alternating) also makes sense
don't care about flaking once/if I decide to alter/sacrifice a hub by drilling
prefer to find an old beat up factory drilled hub if such a thing exists
all my machines are personal/aesthetic and are rotated and only ridden occasionally
ejlwheels
Wore out three sets of tires already!
DOH !
I found the spokes that had been on the rim.
They are 13g or 2.3mm, and I realized that 2.3 is the standard spoke hole for SA hubs.
so I will have no trouble building the wheel with those spokes
(it was missing 3, so I will need to find 3 black 13g spokes and nipples @ 308mm)
The front wheel "mate" is 32 12g spokes, and that is where I got in the mindset of pursuing 12g for the rear.
The wheels won't match; I assume the front came from some kind of delivery cycle
I found the spokes that had been on the rim.
They are 13g or 2.3mm, and I realized that 2.3 is the standard spoke hole for SA hubs.
so I will have no trouble building the wheel with those spokes
(it was missing 3, so I will need to find 3 black 13g spokes and nipples @ 308mm)
The front wheel "mate" is 32 12g spokes, and that is where I got in the mindset of pursuing 12g for the rear.
The wheels won't match; I assume the front came from some kind of delivery cycle
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I'm not so sure that you're out of the woods just yet. Beware of the rolled threads, they are thicker there.
It doesn't make that apparent on these vintage Torrington Spoke spec sheets....but...
2.42mm hub holes.
This is a 14g spoke's measurements, aka .080", aka 2.0mm. It passes through a stock Sturmey hub's hole just fine.
The holes are designed with a little bit of tolerance for angled insertion...but not enough for a .092" spoke, aka 13g...also with a modern designation of 2.3mm. You might get away with threading 13g spokes into those holes, but that has always been annoying to me, it is wear and tear on the fingers too.
Just beware that these threads on a 13g spoke definitely won't fit through stock holes with ease, even though they do have some tolerance. 2.3mm spokes will not fit through "on size" holes because of the larger rolled thread area.
I just dont want to see you to order spokes that are going to cause frustration for your project.
It doesn't make that apparent on these vintage Torrington Spoke spec sheets....but...
2.42mm hub holes.
This is a 14g spoke's measurements, aka .080", aka 2.0mm. It passes through a stock Sturmey hub's hole just fine.
The holes are designed with a little bit of tolerance for angled insertion...but not enough for a .092" spoke, aka 13g...also with a modern designation of 2.3mm. You might get away with threading 13g spokes into those holes, but that has always been annoying to me, it is wear and tear on the fingers too.
Just beware that these threads on a 13g spoke definitely won't fit through stock holes with ease, even though they do have some tolerance. 2.3mm spokes will not fit through "on size" holes because of the larger rolled thread area.
I just dont want to see you to order spokes that are going to cause frustration for your project.
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