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Tell Me About Oxalic Acid

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A word of caution about soaking stuff in Oxalic acid. I am posting this because I have done this with lousy results. I tried the bandage soak. Also the partial soak of only part of an object. { wheels....frame.....fenders }
Submerge the whole frame or fender, wheel whatever or not at all. . If not you will end up with a splotchy looking frame doing the soaked rag thing. Build something the shape of your frame or whatever and line with plastic sheathing to completely submerge your item.When done the Oxalic Acid will be gone after a good washing. It will not continue to "eat" away at the inside of your bike frame. It is not like submerging or applying Muriatic acid to your parts. Granted Oxalic Acid is a toxic chemical and an acid but is more on a par with citric acid [your lime juice] then a something like Muriatic..
It is tempting on a large object like a rim or fender to soak only half of it at a time because of lack of a large enough container. What happens be it because of water temperature,chemical strength , exact matching soak times and the overlap of soaked areas..... or.a combination of all, you will see a difference between the two soaked areas. Gotta soak the whole thing . Sometimes One hour using hot water is enough I have done frames in three hours. Something really badly rusted like those Huffman fenders posted earlier took an overnight bath.
By trying to do half an item at a time there will be a dirty looking "Line" in the paint between the two soaks. And it don't come out.

That's some good advice Tinker. From my experience, I'd like to add that the amount of rust and the OA/water ratio have a lot to do with the time you soak. I prefer a stronger mix and less time in the tub. I've also noticed that the solution loses it's potency as the hours roll by so depending on your mix it may be pointless to leave the items in the tub for long periods of time. The old paint is porous so I'm against leaving painted objects in the tub for long soaks that could cause future rusting under the good paint. If you look at an old Schwinn that has the candy colors you can see the cancer underneath the color coat but it's not yet at the surface of the paint. It looks like someone sprayed the candy coat over rusted areas. You can't see this rusting process underneath a solid color paint but I'm sure it's no different than the candy colors.
 
I use 1 tablespoon per gallon.Soak time 8 hours Tinker is right.Dont partially soak a large piece.Get a cheap kids plastic swimming pool at Walmart and submerge frame fenders ,etc.all at once.
 
I use 1 tablespoon per gallon.Soak time 8 hours Tinker is right.Dont partially soak a large piece.Get a cheap kids plastic swimming pool at Walmart and submerge frame fenders ,etc.all at once.
Once again another post is starting it's inevitable slide downhill. I see Dave Marko and Vincent have joined in.
This thread is now officially doomed. Marko will say something like," Yeah, Vince then lets his grandkids swim in the pool."
Then Vince will say something back like ,"Dave uses the spent O.X. solution for his margarita mix, also to soak his feet."

What does it matter anyway? we have beat this oxalic acid thing to death.
paulie-from-goodfellas.jpg

"Look, we are all sick and tired about this Oxalic Acid crap.".
 
You're forgiven, just don't let it happen again.
Who am I kidding? It's impossible to stop those two.
 
Ok so I used OA on a chrome rod actuated braking system. I was very impressed with the amount of rust it got rid of. But under the rust the metal is very pitted and dull. What's the next step, would you polish it up on a buffer wheel, if so what type and which compound would you use. I'm up for the hard work but not willing to pay to get it re-chromed.
 
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