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1953 Schwinn (¿Super?) Sports dimensions and details

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Also wanted to say that the taped on sleeves were hideous, the oval Schwinn grips didn't match the catalog and seemed pointless for riding and braking, so they had to go. Definitely saved them in case I find another example bike that ran them. Installed some modern sleeves to clean up the cockpit and make it a more comfortable ride. I feel like vinyl bar tape would look out of place on this bike and a match to Opalescent Violet would be pretty tough to find anyways.

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So, the front hub is steel with no stamping, that or it is barely visible. Doesn't make sense since the catalog states it should be alloy hub and alloy rim. But all of the front and rear spokes and nipples seem to match the era. The alloy(Dural) front hub seems to be hit and miss on the Continentals too though.

The bike has the Dural Drop Type Maes Style Bend handlebars and Dural stem like called out for the W-15.

View attachment 2401190
Here's the kicker...the handlebars are 23.6mm diameter too...and the Schwinn oval grips that I took off were made of foam rubber, with this squeaky possibly silicone finish, sun faded or worn off on one side. The parts catalog I posted says only 7/8" dia. grips.

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The two pictures below have natural rubber versions of the grips for comparison. Foam rubber 23.6mm grips in the center.View attachment 2401193

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I thought the Collegiate was where this brake cable stop/Sturmey pulley mount was the first sighting of this particular configuration until I bought this bike.
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I feel like these models were a P.I.T.A. project to keep someone busy in the brazing Cage.

So far I've only spotted one other bike similar to it, when I find that again tomorrow, I'll post a link to it. I'll make another post tomorrow about the brakes and the things that seem off/changed to me.

LOL, PITA.

Hey, I have "never seen a Schwinn of this model", much less one that is almost MINT.

The bike could be "as shipped" from the factory, but it looks like it's equipped about halfway between the two different models (W-14 and W-15).

I do not believe the grips were made in two different diameters. I have installed hundreds of pairs of foam Grab-On's and the imported generic's. They are soft and pliable. You just needed to squirt them with dish soap, slide them on, mount the brake levers, slide on the lower sections, adjust the top sections and let them dry. 22mm, 7/8", 23.5mm foam grips are all the same in my book.

It's still a cool bike, and I'd have no shame in riding it. LOL

John
 
LOL, PITA.

Hey, I have "never seen a Schwinn of this model", much less one that is almost MINT.

The bike could be "as shipped" from the factory, but it looks like it's equipped about halfway between the two different models (W-14 and W-15).

I do not believe the grips were made in two different diameters. I have installed hundreds of pairs of foam Grab-On's and the imported generic's. They are soft and pliable. You just needed to squirt them with dish soap, slide them on, mount the brake levers, slide on the lower sections, adjust the top sections and let them dry. 22mm, 7/8", 23.5mm foam grips are all the same in my book.

It's still a cool bike, and I'd have no shame in riding it. LOL

John

What irks me is that they're too big to fit the Continental bars now! Lol
 
I'm taping some vintage Paramount Track steel bars currently and they seem small like 22mm Varsity steel bars, not the 23.5 alloy bar diameter. I have not measured them to be sure.

John

I believe my Paramounts have 7/8" bars as well.
Here's a link to the sleeves, I've seen the exact sleeve on Pure Cycles branded card displays too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3974101212...pid=5335809022&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

ORIGIN8 makes a longer track sleeve, but its pretty aggressive material. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3963591101...pid=5335809022&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
I'll likely put those track sleeves on my 57 and I want to experiment with cotton wrap and shellac on my 51 whenever I get to it.
 
It's interesting that there is no front mounting tab on the BB shell for a chainguard, but there is one for the rear on the chain stay(was this mentioned previously?).
Fabulous find for us Schwinn lightweight fans!

Yeah, that may have just been the only Right drop out part they had to use for an Electro-forged frame. Which reminds me, I need to measure the thickness...very likely it is the 4mm thick drop out though.
 
I believe my Paramounts have 7/8" bars as well.
Here's a link to the sleeves, I've seen the exact sleeve on Pure Cycles branded card displays too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/397410121287.
ORIGIN8 makes a longer track sleeve, but its pretty aggressive material. https://www.ebay.com/itm/396359110165.I'll likely put those track sleeves on my 57 and I want to experiment with cotton wrap and shellac on my 51 whenever I get to it.

The first time I ever heard of using Shellac on Cloth handlebar tape is here on the CABE. I guess it might work?

The cost of Shellac and the poor availability have pretty much eliminated it from my use in Vintage Trailer Restoration. It comes (maybe came) in both Amber and Clear colors. The problem is that it uses Denatured Alcohol to make it liquid. The sale of Denatured Alcohol is restricted in our area due to air quality regulations. Even if you purchase the $$$$ Zinsser stuff that is already diluted you still need the additional Denatured Alcohol to adjust it as it evaporates. Remember every time you grab onto your handlebars that the sticky Shellac is made from "ground up bug wings".

Have you ever considered the direction you wrap your handlebars? Common plastic handlebar wrap is started "at the top" and the excess is secured "at the bottom of the bar" by the handlebar plug. When using cloth handlebar tape, we always wrapped it in reverse to prevent or at least reduce any unraveling of the edge threads. Start the tape at the bottom and wrap towards the top of the handlebar. The Cinelli tape even came with a couple of strips of tape to finish the ends off at the top, but many guys just used electrical tape on the ends.

John
 
The first time I ever heard of using Shellac on Cloth handlebar tape is here on the CABE. I guess it might work?

The cost of Shellac and the poor availability have pretty much eliminated it from my use in Vintage Trailer Restoration. It comes (maybe came) in both Amber and Clear colors. The problem is that it uses Denatured Alcohol to make it liquid. The sale of Denatured Alcohol is restricted in our area due to air quality regulations. Even if you purchase the $$$$ Zinsser stuff that is already diluted you still need the additional Denatured Alcohol to adjust it as it evaporates. Remember every time you grab onto your handlebars that the sticky Shellac is made from "ground up bug wings".

Have you ever considered the direction you wrap your handlebars? Common plastic handlebar wrap is started "at the top" and the excess is secured "at the bottom of the bar" by the handlebar plug. When using cloth handlebar tape, we always wrapped it in reverse to prevent or at least reduce any unraveling of the edge threads. Start the tape at the bottom and wrap towards the top of the handlebar. The Cinelli tape even came with a couple of strips of tape to finish the ends off at the top, but many guys just used electrical tape on the ends.

John

Hhmmm, kind of like the Redbull motto, "it gives you wings!" Ha. Did not know that. The strange thing is I have seen denatured alcohol for sale in bulk(gallons) here, where I can only find isopropyl alcohol in 20oz bottles.

There was a post I saw on here that I'll follow for the string tie, pull to tuck, and shellac method. It looks classy and well aged.
 
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