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1959 Panther II

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Did anyone spot the fact that the speedometer on the Panther II is on the right side of the handlebar? Every one that I have found, NOS and used has been for the left side of the bike. Even the installation instructions always show the cable going down the left side to the front hub. I found the Panther II speedometer in an unexpected place, ETSY. An internet search sent me there and I was surprised to see this NOS '60's item and at a very fair price. When I got it, in the original perfect box, I noticed something odd. Every NOS one I have found always had 0.3 miles on it which was from calibrating it for a 26-inch wheel. This one had 999.7 miles showing. When I tried the install it on a bike, I noticed that the wheel drive was upside down, but if you put it on the right it would be correct. I still put it on the left, spun the wheel and sure enough, the mileage went backward. But on the right, it went forward. There is nothing on the box to indicate that it was a right-side dedicated speedometer. Has anyone ever seen one or is this just a factory error? Just curious.
 
I know that I am a newbie here but not to restoration of cars and bikes. You are giving me a heart attack when you all talk about using copper and aluminum foil of chrome. Years ago I learned from a Harley Davidson guy what bikers swear by. After all, a Harley usually has more chrome than a '59 Caddy. Nevr Dull will do the trick. Oilit, that '59 you just got is amazing. Much better condition than mine was when I got it. I tore mine down to an empty frame, and like you know, this allowed me to treat each part easily with no knucks and crannies that you can't get at. The paint on your bike is solid and in amazing shape. Please do not use and waxes that have any chemical or mild abrasives. Use Zymol which is the most amazing product I have ever used on cars or bikes coming out of long storages. I'm attaching pictures of before and after pictures using both these products on the '48 Columbia I will be reassembling today. Note the chrome strut before and after and the same with the tank halves. The Zymol never takes any paint or decals or stenciling off. The Nevr Dull never scratches the chrome and dissolves the rust stains leaving a beautiful shine. Never Dull comes soaked in cotton wadding and you rip off what you need. I had to run it up and down on the strut for 20 minutes, but when I was done, the rust and grime that was cooked on for over 50 years was gone. Tonight I will share more pictures to support my recommendations, and I am convinced that after you see my proof and you try these products, you will never use anything else.

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P.S. You can get Zymol on Amazon or Walmart online. Zymol runs about $25 for a bottle that can do a whole car three times or 30 bikes. The Nevr-Dull is at Advanced Auto and Auto Zone stores. There is a specific way to use the Zymol and I will talk about that tonight.
 
Sorry about all the pictures. Learning this site's ways. I completed the '48 Columbia reassembly but being a balloon tire bike, I will post it on another thread that covers these. Please look for it because it is the best example, besides my two Panthers as to what you can achieve, and save on your bike, using the products I told you about.
 
Sorry about all the pictures. Learning this site's ways. I completed the '48 Columbia reassembly but being a balloon tire bike, I will post it on another thread that covers these. Please look for it because it is the best example, besides my two Panthers as to what you can achieve, and save on your bike, using the products I told you about.

Bob, Thanks! There's all kinds of products out there, feedback from someone who's actually tried them is always welcome! Your Panthers look great, too! Joel
 
Sorry about all the pictures. Learning this site's ways. I completed the '48 Columbia reassembly but being a balloon tire bike, I will post it on another thread that covers these. Please look for it because it is the best example, besides my two Panthers as to what you can achieve, and save on your bike, using the products I told you about.

And you say these lights were made in Germany? I wondered where Schwinn got them, thanks for the info!
 
Joel, I bought an original NOS pair of the metal lights from The Cabe in March, in the original box. I think the only time they were out of the box was to take the pictures for eBay. I paid a lot and don't regret it one bit. The plastic chromed ones on the '61 and '62's cannot tolerate the acid rain in Florida and I had heard about the metal ones but did not know why they made two version. Now I know that they were not made at the same time. Metal for the II's and plastic for the III's. The original box told me a lot. That is where I saw the "made in Germany". It is also where I saw the original dealer price if you wanted to put them on a different model bike that they did not come stock on, $5.95! Aaaaaaaaugh! LOL So I now have the durable Florida proof metal lights on my '62 and the plastic ones moved onto my '59 here in CT. The lights that came on that bike are missing the red plastic fins and need to be plated.
 
Joel, Looking through the pictures of your Panther II. Interestingly, my head badge is white with black letters while yours has red letters. I do hope you will use the products I posted before you use anything abrasive. That bike is amazingly original. I noticed that even the rivet heads for the fender supports on the fenders are silver. Wish you lived close. I would go crazy doing a bike like that. Good luck with it. Bob
 
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