A question for the paint prep experts...

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Rusthound

Look Ma, No Hands!
In my opinion the frame looks like it needs a complete good sanding. You should end up with smooth bare metal with small grey looking dots. Re prime and do it all again until the surface is very smooth. (nothing courser than 220 240grit) It's not s good thing to put primer over non sanded primer. The longer you can leave the primer on before painting the smoother the final sand (600 or finer) will be. Auto primer takes about 14 days to cure.
Big pits I think a 2 stage finishing putty would be best. I think those could come out with repeated prime and sand. Prep is 90% of getting a nice paint job. Shops can't wait so they do the color sand a polish.
 

GTs58

I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
In my opinion the frame looks like it needs a complete good sanding. You should end up with smooth bare metal with small grey looking dots. Re prime and do it all again until the surface is very smooth. (nothing courser than 220 240grit) It's not s good thing to put primer over non sanded primer. The longer you can leave the primer on before painting the smoother the final sand (600 or finer) will be. Auto primer takes about 14 days to cure.
Big pits I think a 2 stage finishing putty would be best. I think those could come out with repeated prime and sand. Prep is 90% of getting a nice paint job. Shops can't wait so they do the color sand a polish.

What the heck kind of primer takes 14 days to cure? That's ridiculous!
 

guzziworksman

Finally riding a big boys bike
A belated thanks to all who've responded to this post. I've heeded the collective advice...priming, sanding, filling, repeat...and I'm amazed how well the surface is shaping up. I've never prepped this much before - and the results are impressing me.
 

dasberger

Wore out three sets of tires already!
I've had good luck with the Duplicolor sandablel primer... like others have said should be bare metal with grey dots once pits are filled then prime sand and repeat until happy with finish

IMG_5918.jpg
 
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Late To The Party

Look Ma, No Hands!
Highly recommended to use a guide coat. Basically you wipe on the primer and sand till its all gone, if there is still some in the pits you need more primer, re-guide coat and start over again till really smooth. You should be using a hard sanding block, not a soft one as they conform to dips and prevent you from getting it truly laser straight. This stuff is better than nearly anything and it truly is a life time supply, even if you do cars. You can cheat and use a black spray can dusting but this sands so much easier.

1678673
 

guzziworksman

Finally riding a big boys bike
I'm using Rustoleum products. Satin Canyon Black with a gloss Clearcoat. I'm doing this to be able to control the sheen I wind up with - plus, I'll be pinstriping and applying decals that I'd like to clearcoat over. I talked to someone at Rustoleum...their advice: apply the clearcoat within an hour after applying the color coat - or after 48 hours. He said it has to do with the volatiles (primarily acetone, I seem to remember him saying) evaporating from the surface of the color coat. He said there'd be no problerm if I observed those application times.
 
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