Bike trailers , yay or nay?

[Sven]

Thinking about getting a bicycle trailer. Want it to haul produce, larger statues and small building supplies, tools. Anyone have any experiences with them ? Good or bad.
Thinking going this route with a "gooseneck"

Seems more versatile than the axle coupling

The Carla trailer is neat...but maybe a little too much

Thanks in advance

 

[Schwinn Sales West]

I have pulled two kids in a "home made trailer" many miles behind my Paramount Tandem. My connection point was a threaded 1/4" Heim Joint. I used a safety cable as a backup. The joint never failed after years of use. Today, I would use a 1" nylon safety strap. My home-made trailer had the "high mount" tongue like in your top photo. I have sold many trailers as a bicycle dealer. Starting with Cannondale's in the 1970's that had the "twisty nylon" seat post tongue connector, to the folding Schwinn (imported) trailers that had the frame axle point connection. By far the nicest quality trailers I have ever sold were the Burley's. As expected, they were also the priciest. IMO, they all towed great, I could not see any advantage or disadvantage with either a high or low tongue mounting, they were all stable. If you build a trailer keep the center of gravity low as possible. I would make the trailer no wider than a doorway for storage. My home-made trailer was built for 27" wheels, but I would stay with 20" alloy (36-hole BMX) rims today. You want to select "quality" high pressure tires. Just like towing with a truck, keep in mind that you have to be able to stop and control the Gross Vehicle weight. That's You, the Bicycle, the trailer, AND your cargo load. So you might want to upgrade your braking system. Trailers are like riding tandems. They are slow going uphill. But haul butt going downhill, which is when the braking ability is challenged.

Good luck

John

 

[Andrew Gorman]

ACK! have to register to see the post, but an impressive load by someone who uses multiple bike trailers a LOT"

Old Woodworking Machines - Login

 

[SirMike1983]

For hauling on a recurring basis (especially heavy loads) rather than only occasional hauls, I'd look at a Dutch or Danish style "long john" or similar dedicated cargo bike rather than a trailer. The hauler bike is built and engineered with the extra strain of load hauling in mind. A trailer is good when you usually are running just the bike, but only occasionally need the load hauling. The hauler/long john is better when you usually need a hauler and only occasionally run empty.

 

[The Colonel]

I have the chinese online one shown in the pic. Its ok. not great. I pull my dog in it. My advice, Spend the extra $$ and get a nicer one if youre looking to pull a heavier load. The axles arent made to carry a stressful load and the wheels bow a bit. Could be a intentional designed that way as the bowing may stabilize it.. IDK. Look at the axles close before purchase, go for the best design. I use the dropout connector vs the seat post connector. Control is way better from the low dropout position.

 

[fattyre]

Axle mount all the way.

Goose neck style can really affect cornering and climbing with a load.

 

[Sven]

For hauling on a recurring basis (especially heavy loads) rather than only occasional hauls, I'd look at a Dutch or Danish style "long john" or similar dedicated cargo bike rather than a trailer. The hauler bike is built and engineered with the extra strain of load hauling in mind. A trailer is good when you usually are running just the bike, but only occasionally need the load hauling. The hauler/long john is better when you usually need a hauler and only occasionally run empty.

I looked at the dutch cargo bikes. Kinda pricey and I dont know if I would use it that often
I do like cargo trikes. (Not only handy, but it looks like a babe magnet)

Thanks for the response

 

[Sven]

I have pulled two kids in a "home made trailer" many miles behind my Paramount Tandem. My connection point was a threaded 1/4" Heim Joint. I used a safety cable as a backup. The joint never failed after years of use. Today, I would use a 1" nylon safety strap. My home-made trailer had the "high mount" tongue like in your top photo. I have sold many trailers as a bicycle dealer. Starting with Cannondale's in the 1970's that had the "twisty nylon" seat post tongue connector, to the folding Schwinn (imported) trailers that had the frame axle point connection. By far the nicest quality trailers I have ever sold were the Burley's. As expected, they were also the priciest. IMO, they all towed great, I could not see any advantage or disadvantage with either a high or low tongue mounting, they were all stable. If you build a trailer keep the center of gravity low as possible. I would make the trailer no wider than a doorway for storage. My home-made trailer was built for 27" wheels, but I would stay with 20" alloy (36-hole BMX) rims today. You want to select "quality" high pressure tires. Just like towing with a truck, keep in mind that you have to be able to stop and control the Gross Vehicle weight. That's You, the Bicycle, the trailer, AND your cargo load. So you might want to upgrade your braking system. Trailers are like riding tandems. They are slow going uphill. But haul butt going downhill, which is when the braking ability is challenged.

Good luck

John

You brought up a lot of good points.
Thank you for your knowledgable insight.

 

[GTs58]

How about a five speed tandem with a Datsun pick up truck bed attached to the back?

 

[Sven]

Well, I dove in and bought the imported seat post mounted trailer. I figure it does'nt work out I'll use it as a lawn/garden cart.
Thanks for all that responded. I'll let you all know if I made a big mistake