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Fender Rolling 101

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Yes! Be my guest.... sounds like an interesting story
@noverguy
My experience during November 2024 with ordering a rivet squeezer, dies and rivets over the phone with Hanson Rivet.

I spoke with an expert customer service person named TJ who was extremely helpful and got my order placed. They shipped the package out immediately and I received it within three days. When the package was received it had a small hole punched in it. When I opened the Priority Mail Flat Rate box it had some paper, the squeezer dies and a bag of rivets. There was no rivet squeezer in the box. I had a sense right away that there was going to be a problem.

I took some photos of the box and contents and then called Hanson. They requested the photos. I e-mailed the photos to to TJ. He noted that the box had a small hole punched in it but no way could the rivet squeezer fall out through that hole. He also noted that one side of the box had clear tape on it. He said clear tape was not Hanson Rivet tape. He said that perhaps the post office had taped it up after it had opened during shipping and the rivet squeezer fell out. TJ also commented that "this kind of thing happens all the time". I did not argue. He assured me they would take care of it and would ship me out a squeezer right away.

I received the squeezer a few days later, this time in a big heavy box taped securely on both ends.

I noticed that I had been billed for the second squeezer and repeat shipping so I called Hanson and spoke to TJ about this. He told me I had to wait twenty two days before they could file a claim with the USPS in order for me to receive a refund for the "lost squeezer". That did not make any sense to me, but I let it go and prepared to wait the twenty two days. The next day I brought all of the packaging to my local post office and explained to the guy there the situation. He informed me Hanson rivet was completely wrong. For a "loss" the shipper must file a claim immediately. I took everything back home and sent TJ an e-mail about this.

I received an e-mail back a day later from TJ's superior Fabi Medina explaining to me that Hanson had $100 worth of insurance on the package (full value of the contents and shipping was $174.54) and (if and when) the Post Office reimburses Hanson for the loss, at that point I would receive a refund.

In the end, I received a package that was a partial shipment. The missing rivet squeezer had nothing to do with me, and either (1) it was never in the box, or (2) the box end opened during shipment and the squeezer fell out, then, the opened box was discovered by the USPS and the box was taped shut, leaving behind the remainder of the shipment that I received.

In late December I received the $100 refund from Hanson Rivet. So, in the end we find that I paid a total of $220.67 for what I initially intended to pay $174.54.

My main reason for writing all of this out here on an antique bicycle fender rolling thread is many of you guys are probably considering fender rollers and rivet tools. So, if any of you guys order anything from Hanson Rivet - make sure and tell the sales agent that you want the package fully covered for loss or damage with insurance.

Lastly, TJ is who to ask for if you call. TJ is a wizard when it comes to rivets. The Hanson Rivet squeezer and the dies and the rivets are supreme. Its a very very nice tool and the plain rivets fit the old original paint fenders perfectly. The Hanson Rivet products are highly recommended.

Thanks for reading! Perry in NH USA
 
My experience during November 2024 with ordering a rivet squeezer, dies and rivets over the phone with Hanson Rivet.

I spoke with an expert customer service person named TJ who was extremely helpful and got my order placed. They shipped the package out immediately and I received it within three days. When the package was received it had a small hole punched in it. When I opened the Priority Mail Flat Rate box it had some paper, the squeezer dies and a bag of rivets. There was no rivet squeezer in the box. I had a sense right away that there was going to be a problem.

I took some photos of the box and contents and then called Hanson. They requested the photos. I e-mailed the photos to to TJ. He noted that the box had a small hole punched in it but no way could the rivet squeezer fall out through that hole. He also noted that one side of the box had clear tape on it. He said clear tape was not Hanson Rivet tape. He said that perhaps the post office had taped it up after it had opened during shipping and the rivet squeezer fell out. TJ also commented that "this kind of thing happens all the time". I did not argue. He assured me they would take care of it and would ship me out a squeezer right away.

I received the squeezer a few days later, this time in a big heavy box taped securely on both ends.

I noticed that I had been billed for the second squeezer and repeat shipping so I called Hanson and spoke to TJ about this. He told me I had to wait twenty two days before they could file a claim with the USPS in order for me to receive a refund for the "lost squeezer". That did not make any sense to me, but I let it go and prepared to wait the twenty two days. The next day I brought all of the packaging to my local post office and explained to the guy there the situation. He informed me Hanson rivet was completely wrong. For a "loss" the shipper must file a claim immediately. I took everything back home and sent TJ an e-mail about this.

I received an e-mail back a day later from TJ's superior Fabi Medina explaining to me that Hanson had $100 worth of insurance on the package (full value of the contents and shipping was $174.54) and (if and when) the Post Office reimburses Hanson for the loss, at that point I would receive a refund.

In the end, I received a package that was a partial shipment. The missing rivet squeezer had nothing to do with me, and either (1) it was never in the box, or (2) the box end opened during shipment and the squeezer fell out, then, the opened box was discovered by the USPS and the box was taped shut, leaving behind the remainder of the shipment that I received.

In late December I received the $100 refund from Hanson Rivet. So, in the end we find that I paid a total of $220.67 for what I initially intended to pay $174.54.

My main reason for writing all of this out here on an antique bicycle fender rolling thread is many of you guys are probably considering fender rollers and rivet tools. So, if any of you guys order anything from Hanson Rivet - make sure and tell the sales agent that you want the package fully covered for loss or damage with insurance.

Lastly, TJ is who to ask for if you call. TJ is a wizard when it comes to rivets. The Hanson Rivet squeezer and the dies and the rivets are supreme. Its a very very nice tool and the plain rivets fit the old original paint fenders perfectly. The Hanson Rivet products are highly recommended.

Thanks for reading! Perry in NH USA
I ordered my squeezer/ dies from Hanson Rivet back in 2009. Arrived with no issues.
Thanks for posting the info. Good to be prepared to avoid any issues.
 
I ordered my squeezer/ dies from Hanson Rivet back in 2009. Arrived with no issues.
Thanks for posting the info. Good to be prepared to avoid any issues.
Great company and products! I thought the way they handled the missing squeezer was very bizarre. Thanks for all of your posts!
 
EXAMPLE #26
Shot some video footage for this job. Started at the nose. Seemed like a good place to start. Had to lube the top wheel. Was sticking too much and just sliding across paint and not seeing the rolling action I wanted too see. But after lube spread out bam! Smooth...

gif-20241230-093209.gif


Next was the flared end. Back and forth moving side to side to flatten out the highs

gif-20241230-093818.gif


Those fender braces when they get loose often stretch fender metal out on the edges of the brace. Common problem I see over and over. Knocking down the highs here....
And the pin stripes started to parish...never know if they will stay or go....

gif-20241230-093958.gif


With the help of a crescent wrench had to work the edge back into the line nice and easy as not to over do it.

gif-20241230-095933.gif


Hammer and Train Rail Dolly next on the job.
And so far so good. Minor stuff to address. After all the cleaning still specks of tar slowed me down. Overall turned out great regardless.

IMG_20241230_091005386_HDR.jpg


IMG_20241230_091012936_HDR.jpg


IMG_20241230_091354311.jpg


IMG_20241230_091347979.jpg


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EXAMPLE #26
Shot some video footage for this job. Started at the nose. Seemed like a good place to start. Had to lube the top wheel. Was sticking too much and just sliding across paint and not seeing the rolling action I wanted too see. But after lube spread out bam! Smooth...

View attachment 2163885

Next was the flared end. Back and forth moving side to side to flatten out the highs

View attachment 2163898

Those fender braces when they get loose often stretch fender metal out on the edges of the brace. Common problem I see over and over. Knocking down the highs here....
And the pin stripes started to parish...never know if they will stay or go....

View attachment 2163902

With the help of a crescent wrench had to work the edge back into the line nice and easy as not to over do it.

View attachment 2163905

Hammer and Train Rail Dolly next on the job.
And so far so good. Minor stuff to address. After all the cleaning still specks of tar slowed me down. Overall turned out great regardless.

View attachment 2163909

View attachment 2163910

View attachment 2163911

View attachment 2163912

View attachment 2163913

View attachment 2163914

View attachment 2163915
Man, this is not a post, its a tutorial! Great videos and photos. You're doing metal finishing with the "paint on". Perfectionist! Great work as always and thanks for posting!
 
I enjoy you taking the time to share this information with us.

Just a couple of general observations.

The hammer needs to have a "flat head", when taping on top of a crowned fender. The slightly curved head on the ball peen hammer displaces (as in stretches) the metal with each blow. You might look into using the "hard nylon" hammer's when working on the thin metal of a bicycle fender to reduce the metal stretch. Every small dent in a fender "is a metal stretch". Since the dent is a stretched area, use the dolly under the dent, and use the flat head hammer to lightly work the area "around the dent". Metal guys refer to this as "off hammer". If the dent is just hammered up from the bottom, it does not shrink the stretched metal from around the dent.

The metal working tools need to have surfaces that are "ground smooth". The hammers, and the dollies should be mirror smooth, or they will transfer their imperfections into the work. It's the same reason you took the extra time to clean the tar from the underside of the fender and keep your rollers spotless clean and smooth.

You will likely need to "hand make" some of the special tools needed, and they will be better than store bought. Car spring leaf's are a good source for metal. One of my favorite dollies is a huge "domed" valve out of a diesel engine, for example.

John
 
I enjoy you taking the time to share this information with us.

Just a couple of general observations.

The hammer needs to have a "flat head", when taping on top of a crowned fender. The slightly curved head on the ball peen hammer displaces (as in stretches) the metal with each blow. You might look into using the "hard nylon" hammer's when working on the thin metal of a bicycle fender to reduce the metal stretch. Every small dent in a fender "is a metal stretch". Since the dent is a stretched area, use the dolly under the dent, and use the flat head hammer to lightly work the area "around the dent". Metal guys refer to this as "off hammer". If the dent is just hammered up from the bottom, it does not shrink the stretched metal from around the dent.

The metal working tools need to have surfaces that are "ground smooth". The hammers, and the dollies should be mirror smooth, or they will transfer their imperfections into the work. It's the same reason you took the extra time to clean the tar from the underside of the fender and keep your rollers spotless clean and smooth.

You will likely need to "hand make" some of the special tools needed, and they will be better than store bought. Car spring leaf's are a good source for metal. One of my favorite dollies is a huge "domed" valve out of a diesel engine, for example.

John
Thanks for the info. I actually do minor taps at an angle to lower the high point and then use the roller to get to the edge and use the crescent wrench to get it even more in line. Hammer I use is pretty flat.

IMG_20241230_121002432_HDR.jpg


IMG_20241230_121017990_HDR.jpg


IMG_20241230_121406843_HDR.jpg
 
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Thanks for the info. I actually do minor taps at an angle to lower the high point and then use the roller to get to the edge and use the crescent wrench to get it even more in line. Hammer I use is pretty flat.

View attachment 2163995

View attachment 2163996

View attachment 2163997
Whatever you are using and doing - keep it up! That blue fender looks brand new. That blue paint is still so nice, and you have that fender so smooth again that once its all mounted up its gonna look MINT!
 
If any area you work on starts hopping and bouncing all over the place most likely you have a dent or ding that needs to be leveled or you have a glob of tar , grit or mud of some sort that needs attention before you move on. Once it's flat then when you roll the area you won't get those hops

gif-20241230-171654.gif


But it's also good to check the inside to see if you can see a high or low spot. Often turning the fender in good light you can see areas you may have missed. Following the line in the this you clip you can see where it needs rolling. Can you see it?
Only minor details left and off to the next.
Until next time !!

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Before and after... 👇

Screenshot_20241230-173602.png


Screenshot_20241230-180000.png
 
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