Late 30's/early 40's Claud Butler find

[bulldog1935]

...View attachment 460458

Jon, after looking over this photo, I can't believe the Reynolds stem you bought is not the same as the broken one.
The broken one has a quill bolt. Did a long quill bolt come out? Are you sure you just don't have a stuck quill in the top of the fork steerer?

This just in from Hilary
No the part in the steerer is part of the stem – I'd guess it is stuck because its aluminium. But the one I sent is also two part. Remove the expander bolt completely and the extension should tap off – warming it in the oven might help and also penetrating fluid etc. It should fit on his exactly but there sahould be a short bolt with a piece left inside what he has…
regards

Hilary

www.hilarystone.com
Period bikes and components

On 25/05/2017 13:07, Ron Mc wrote:
Hilary,
Fellow CR member here.
Do you mind looking at this broken Reynolds stem on a prewar Claud Butler - thread on The CABE. http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/late-30s-early-40s-claud-butler-find.109565/
I sent the OP to you to purchase what looked like the correct replacement.
I believe the original was a quill with a pressed-on aluminum forging.
The OP believes the remaining part above the headset is his fork steerer tube.
Have you seen anything like this?
Thanks for your time and considerate reply.
Ron Mc
Bulverde, Texas

So two choices here, either remove the old quill from your fork steerer, or remove the top forging from the new stem and use it (your old wedge should still be in the old quill)

PSS, here's a good price on a Brooks Team Pro
http://planetcyclery.com/price-broo...rail-honey-riveted?utm_source=google_shopping

 

[Simple.]

Wow thanks for taking time to help Ron! That is great news! I will try to separate the new quill first as the old stem appears to be stuck pretty good (for now). If separating the new one seems to be too risky, I will try and tackle the stem in the forks. I should have this addressed this evening and hopefully some updates. I just joined here recently and I am blown away by how friendly and willing people are to help.

I will keep this thread going as I resurrect this bike and take it on adventures!

What would the grip material used back then be like? I will true the rear wheel tonight and regrease it, then I just need to find a nice patina'd Brooks saddle for it!

Thanks again for all your help!

Jon

These are pictures from when I rescued it and brought it home.

 

[bulldog1935]

Something else that might help.
The split taper in the top of your stuck stem quill.
Just slightly spread that before you install the new reach forging.
Probably the reason your old reach forging cracked to begin with was over-tightening.
Doing this will give you a new press-fit at the joint.
Anytime I remove/install new bars on an old stem, I use a screwdriver blade to spread the bar clamp so everything will move with minimum friction, e.g.

 

[Simple.]

Thanks! Both appear to be pretty well locked together still. Even a little heat wasn't enough and the aluminum alloy is very soft so trying to persuade it is challenging. There's a indexing pin on the top of the new forging, if I can get that pin out, I'm pretty sure I can twist the forging back and forth and separate the two. It's been in penetrating lube all night so I will try again in a bit!

Jon

 

[bulldog1935]

try the freezer, too - this has worked for me with stuck screws in antique fly reels.
It's not the cold condition that makes it work, but the cycles through warm and cold.

and logically, a cold stem and a warm forging should separate easier.
Try overnight in the freezer, and hit the forging with a blow drier

 

[Simple.]

We are back in action. Had to make a hybrid quill. The lock pin on the new one was a bigger diameter so I filed the stem groove bigger, then re-drilled the forging so I could use the old style double-bolt setup.

Still not set on a seat, but I've got some that will get me by for now. Once I fix the rear wheel I will have some better photos!

Jon

 

[bulldog1935]

looking forward to a ride report

 

[Simple.]

I found a nice brooks seat that will match the patina. I've got over 5 hours of cleaning/polishing so far and it's really starting to look like something. Trying to be gentle with the cleaning process so its taking some time. Here's some random pictures until the seat shows up!

Revealed the San Giorgio wheels...

And the Bayliss Wiley hubs...

Still can't locate any markings on the chain wheel..

Love these pedals.

Tapered spokes with brass nipples

 

[Simple.]

Got out for it's 5 mile maiden voyage! Don't mind the seat, a proper Brooks is in the mail!!!

It took me a few hours to true that rear wheel this morning. Good thing I'm on vacation all week with nothing to do but bikes and party. Haha

 

[bulldog1935]

I'm surprised you don't have a half-dozen likes on that last post - you've made really good accomplishments here, stuck to it, overcome obstacles - and you're riding the bike!!. Congratulations.

about that fork blade boss:
if you look at vintage British bike restorations, it seems they're not complete without a fork-mounted light bracket, even if it's not in use
('52 Raleigh Record Ace)

SJS Cycles sells a duplicate of an original BSA fork mount light bracket
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=311657439621

I also searched up these examples on ebay,uk
out of those, this one is a nice example that is the age of your bike:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=112397997054

if you want to simply plug the hole in the fork blade, you can find a 5/16-24 (5/16" Fine thread) bolt, about a half-inch long,, at a hardware store, and a matching washer.

A vintage lamp mounted there would use a bottle generator on the front wheel.

A number of makers made logo lamp brackets for the fork mount boss, and they look really cool even without a lamp (I think this is Rotrax - Raleigh had a heron bracket)
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/odds&sods.html

found this nice photo of a '37 Triumph with a lamp mounted

here's the fork-boss light mount I put together on my Lenton. The thread is 5/16-24 and I found a speargun shaft tip converter (to M6) that matched the thread.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335809022&icep_item=252552457149
The arm is from Somafab. I tapped a Gino light mount to M6 for the Cygo handlebar light.

I already had the big washer, which was under the boss plug bolt