Now, that's the "Artist's License" I was talking about.
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Ok, what am I missing here?
- Thread starter cyclingday
- Start date
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Schwinn Sales West
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
At McFadden-Dale Hardware (or any good industrial hardware store) they have what is called a "AN" washer. These flat washers are made with a very small outside diameter compared to the inside diameter. A 1/4" Stainless AN washer might have been just the ticket to place under the bolt head.
Glad to hear you made it all work.
John
Archie Sturmer
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
AN-960 or NAS-1149 might be equivalent?
cyclingday
I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
Ok, I found a nice little washer to nest between the two bolts.
One of the reasons that I was so determined to get the stem out of the steering tube, was because the fork blades were badly misaligned, so I needed to get the fork out of the frame, so I could true it up.
Working on a bike this old, feels like opening up King Tuts Tomb.
I think it’s safe to say, that it’s been awhile, since there was any grease in that headset. Lol!
I’m thinking that the last time anyone ever saw those bearings, Ignaz Schwinn was a young man.
First order of business, was to get that fork in the alignment jig.
This tool is indispensable, so I can’t understand why Park Tool, discontinued it.
Unfortunately, this is a common malaise with these old closed fork ends.
The fork probably got misaligned the first time the wheel had to come out, because Bubba yanked the fork blade to one side far enough to clear the axle.
This one was so far out of alignment, that the wheel wouldn’t even spin because the tire was rubbing on the inside of the fork blade.
Here it is getting a badly needed check up.
Good as new, thanks to these two Park Tools.
Both of which I bought right here on the Cabe.
Thanks to @badbob and @bricycle for graciously making these tools available.
This old Schwinn is eternally grateful!
One of the reasons that I was so determined to get the stem out of the steering tube, was because the fork blades were badly misaligned, so I needed to get the fork out of the frame, so I could true it up.
Working on a bike this old, feels like opening up King Tuts Tomb.
I think it’s safe to say, that it’s been awhile, since there was any grease in that headset. Lol!
I’m thinking that the last time anyone ever saw those bearings, Ignaz Schwinn was a young man.
First order of business, was to get that fork in the alignment jig.
This tool is indispensable, so I can’t understand why Park Tool, discontinued it.
Unfortunately, this is a common malaise with these old closed fork ends.
The fork probably got misaligned the first time the wheel had to come out, because Bubba yanked the fork blade to one side far enough to clear the axle.
This one was so far out of alignment, that the wheel wouldn’t even spin because the tire was rubbing on the inside of the fork blade.
Here it is getting a badly needed check up.
Good as new, thanks to these two Park Tools.
Both of which I bought right here on the Cabe.
Thanks to @badbob and @bricycle for graciously making these tools available.
This old Schwinn is eternally grateful!
Schwinn Sales West
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
The Park fork bending tool, and the fork clamping tools are first class. The Fork Gauge arm on the Fork Clamp leaves much to be desired. It is better than nothing but only slightly. My gripe is the gauge arm, and the hex end are not precision. In our shop we used Blanchard Ground steel frame table and had a "V" block fixture (like the Park Clamp) that held the steerer tube. Then we used a dial indicator to square up the fork crown in the holding fixture. Once the fork is squared you can use the dial indicator to compare the fork legs and fork ends for alignment to each other. It's easy to align a fork, but very time consuming to determine exactly where to make the adjustment corrections.
I believe your correct in assuming your fork with closed ends was likely damaged by spreading. The advantage to the early closed end Schwinn spring forks was that you simply needed to back off the pivot bolt the distance of the pivot lock nut to remove the front wheel without fighting the fork leg.
John
I believe your correct in assuming your fork with closed ends was likely damaged by spreading. The advantage to the early closed end Schwinn spring forks was that you simply needed to back off the pivot bolt the distance of the pivot lock nut to remove the front wheel without fighting the fork leg.
John
cyclingday
I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
I just got the long quill bolt back from nickel plating.
So, here is the complete handlebar assembly for the 1898 Schwinn/World, model 22 Roadster, with replacement quill bolt installed.
Yay!
So, here is the complete handlebar assembly for the 1898 Schwinn/World, model 22 Roadster, with replacement quill bolt installed.
Yay!
