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Phillips

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1460955


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please, no pounding

pounding damages the wedgebolt and potentially the bearing races of the spindle & cups as well

pressing is the way to go; whether you employ a purpose made tool or something you adapt such as a c-clamp or bench vise

take care in setting up for pressing that all is in good alignment; you wish to press straight into the long axis of the pin; if you are off at all you will bend the stud which renders removal more difficult

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mounting -

installation is also best done with a press
adequate pressure and they will stay in place until removed
the nut on the cotter is just a keeper - a kind of safety feature and should not be relied up for installation

on a properly seated crank cotter the nut us superfluous

remember to mount them symmetrically - either the head leads or the tail leads in the rotation

many home mechanics get this wrong on the first attempt and end up with arms out of registration

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when you get everything apart you may find the centre section of the bottom bracket spindle to be marked "16GC"

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Last edited:
Okay thanks I like that method much betta!
the pin has been soaked with fair amount of blaster & heater slightly so hopefully will come out.

so likely as these are hard to remove they were properly seated some time ago.
 
I have had a clamp with a socket over the end of the crank pin for a day now, it is aligned as best one can align a C-clamp. Has not moved is oiled with blaster.
 
If the c-clamp method is not working, you may have to break down and get a Bike Smith Design type cotter press. It's a definite upgrade over the basic C-clamp. It provides more force, and importantly, more precise force through its fine threaded, domed bolt. If you're going to work on cottered bottom brackets with any regularity, it's worth the money.
 
Yes bikesmith finally came thru & thankfully he got through to work again.

right tool took a whole five minutes.
I assume the pins were probably initially installed properly with a press as they were in fine shape.
too many years sitting outside I assume.
so now the bike can be torn down to clean the parts, photos later.

not sure about the frame, not bent per se but crushed in a couple of spots.
 
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thanks for the updates

excellent to see you are moving forward with it

that first ride report can no be far distant 😉


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The frame has some dents, this was one of many someone got from the Hanover bicycle salvage unit.
basically headed to scrap & was pushed together with many bikes only damage was this.
not sure if this is worth trying to get round again or if that is possible?
IMG_3340-M.jpg

this was likely a Dartmouth student whom abandoned the bike.
the plan is be ready in Spring.
rear rim is very rusty?
IMG_3341-M.jpg
 
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it is limited what can be accomplished with top tube dents due to access

the high spots of the deformation can be rolled out with rolling blocks such as those offered by Bicycle Research Products of Concord, California -

1511202


the remaining low spots can then be filled in with solder/brass/body putty and the tube repainted

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