Tips on applying waterslide decals.

[bikemonkey]

May I add my .5 cent's worth. ALWAYS use a container that is long/wide enough so the decal can lie flat and not force it to curl up, thus resulting in a visit to the third circle of hell...

 

[bikemonkey]

solveset should always be part of the program,it will take out the air bubbles and increase adhesion,reduces alot of errors,saves you from have to mess with it causing damage,its like using grease and wax remover when painting

Never heard of that before - thanks!
Here is a link for ordering.

 

[morton]

Decal tip for OLD decals. They usually deteriorate with age and when you try to apply them, the break up.

If they haven't yellowed (on the clear parts), I use an airbrush to spray 1 or 2 light coats of Krylon clear enamel onto the decal. (spay bomb into a cup, and pour contents into the air brush bottle).

When dry (a few hours at least), I use an Exacto knife and cut around the decal to remove as much of the clear carrier as possible, then apply as normal.

The clear will increase the thickness a bit so don't over due it, just enough to keep the decal together. I've salvaged many old decals using this method but spraying directly from the can usually results in a too thick coating and can damage the decal.

 

[2jakes]

Good advice from everyone.
I use soft Q-tips to position & also to absorb the water and smooth out any area
that needs it.
Think like a surgeon and work gently.
Remember that there is only so much time to make corrections.
As it starts to dry any change or repositioning may break the decal.

 

[morton]

Good advice from everyone.
I use soft Q-tips to position & also to absorb the water and smooth out any area
that needs it.
Think like a surgeon and work gently.
Remember that there is only so much time to make corrections.
As it starts to dry any change or repositioning may break the decal.

I too use the Q-tips. Get them at the local pharmacy for about $8 a thousand. They have about a 4" wooden handle and the cotton tip on just one end. Work well with decals and I find them very useful for cleaning out bearing races and other pia areas that need to be cleaned. Dip the end in solvent and you can easily clean out those areas, or any part that has thick grease in hard to reach areas. I also shave off part of the cotton end and use them to clean siphon tube and other areas on my airbrush. .

 

[atencioee]

One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?

 

[GTs58]

One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?

Never heard that. But I've heard that applying a light coat of clear lacquer on to the decal itself before applying, and have done this myself on older questionable decals that haven't already yellowed. It's not needed if the decals are fresh.

 

[Freqman1]

One guy told me that he sprays a real small touch of clear coat on the area of the frame/part and allows to dry 24 hrs before applying the decal. Has anyone tried that?

I would not do that