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Wood bleach

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I have seen things come out of OA baths on this site looking pretty good that I am confident would have lost most if not all of their paint in evaporust. I do like evaporust, and have used it quite a bit on automotive stuff. Evaporust will eventually find it's way to all the rust, including the rust that you can't see under the paint. The paint will float off. This could happen with OA too, and probably does, but OA seems less aggressive in this respect. Horses for courses....
 
I prefer OA, mainly because I'm used to working with it and it is inexpensive to use. I see Evaporust as the product for smaller jobs and jobs where bleaching paint is a concern. I use OA for just about everything else.

A few warnings:
-Evaporust is prone to softening and degrading period decals.
-OA will bleach certain period decals, reds, and gold paints.
-OA will form a stubborn, yellow crust if mixed too strongly or left in too long.
-OA should be pH neutralized (baking soda in water will work) in hard-to-reach places that you won't be cleaning any time soon.
-Both will lift compromised paints. Evaporust will do it faster, but both will do it.
-Both (but OA in particular) will remove certain kinds of surface plating, such as galvanizing and CAD plating.
-Both will remove bluing for wartime type finishes.
-OA can be mixed to your preference for weakness/strength.
-Both do better in warm conditions: warm workshop, warm outdoors, etc. OA benefits from use of warm/hot tap water in the mix.

If you're cleaning the inside of a frame, I'd follow up the treatment with something to neutralize the pH of OA, and then a good preservative like Frame Saver, Fluid Film, or even WD40. Let the excess preservative drain out before rebuilding. With Evaporust, I'd just do a simple rinse and preservative treatment. PH is less a concern with Evaporust (but a lot more expensive for big jobs).
 
I prefer OA, mainly because I'm used to working with it and it is inexpensive to use. I see Evaporust as the product for smaller jobs and jobs where bleaching paint is a concern. I use OA for just about everything else.

A few warnings:
-Evaporust is prone to softening and degrading period decals.
-OA will bleach certain period decals, reds, and gold paints.
-OA will form a stubborn, yellow crust if mixed too strongly or left in too long.
-OA should be pH neutralized (baking soda in water will work) in hard-to-reach places that you won't be cleaning any time soon.
-Both will lift compromised paints. Evaporust will do it faster, but both will do it.
-Both (but OA in particular) will remove certain kinds of surface plating, such as galvanizing and CAD plating.
-Both will remove bluing for wartime type finishes.
-OA can be mixed to your preference for weakness/strength.
-Both do better in warm conditions: warm workshop, warm outdoors, etc. OA benefits from use of warm/hot tap water in the mix.

If you're cleaning the inside of a frame, I'd follow up the treatment with something to neutralize the pH of OA, and then a good preservative like Frame Saver, Fluid Film, or even WD40. Let the excess preservative drain out before rebuilding. With Evaporust, I'd just do a simple rinse and preservative treatment. PH is less a concern with Evaporust (but a lot more expensive for big jobs).
yep, I plan on plugging the tubes, pouring it in the frame only, then coating immediately with frame saver sealant. ill take pics. I have 2 frames to do. Ill experiment on the least cooler one first and post pics here. ty ty
 
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I've used OX many times with excellent results. A warning if mixing up a big batch of it. This stuff is not safe. Don't get it on any exposed skin and never use it indoors . If you're soaking a big lot of parts, or maybe a bike frame, don't even think about doing it inside. Seems like everyone thinks this stuff is harmless. The fumes are hardly noticeable, but can cause permanent lung damage. If you're old like me and already have lung damage from the other stupid things you've done, this stuff will make it greatly worse. Personally, I say don't use it. After what I've experienced with it, I will never use it again. Lots of safer methods. But....if you simply must use it, the entire object you wish to clean must be submerged. You can't do half of a painted part and then flip it over and do the other half later. Check out my old post in the Restoration Threads, "Seeing is believing." Never use it on parts that are painted red. Most paints use iron oxide in them. The OX thinks it's rust and will remove it, or at best turn your red paint pink. I shouldn't even bother to write this, but I know folks will still use this crap. Lime juice works just as good. As far as capping off open tubes in a frame.....don't bother. You'll be long dead before any damage appears.
 
Do it outside on a really hot day along with hot water. Soak it in the hot water and sun. Hot water makes it work better. Pick up a plastic kiddie pool at wallmart so if you have a frame,fenders etc, you can submerge the whole item. Dont try to do a piece in sections. When finished I have dumped it in the back of my property into the grass and it didnt hurt it
 
Do it outside on a really hot day along with hot water. Soak it in the hot water and sun. Hot water makes it work better. Pick up a plastic kiddie pool at wallmart so if you have a frame,fenders etc, you can submerge the whole item. Dont try to do a piece in sections. When finished I have dumped it in the back of my property into the grass and it didnt hurt it
After you are done using your solution, It must be disposed of properly! I used to dump it on the back half of our property, right on the base of our fence where our backyard slopes into my neighbors park-like yard. Until a fellow CABER told me what he does with it, I regularly dumped it into my neighbors yard, laughing as I watched it run towards their fat little kid's swings and slide playset. What I do now, is use it as a mixer for the wife's regular afternoon pitcher of Lime Ricky's. She claims it's tart and refreshing! She enjoys it. As a side note, the fillings in her teeth [ that have turned black over the years] are now bright silver. Powerful stuff.
 
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