Oilit
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Thanks SirMike! I wanted to hear from someone who actually had some experience with these. I haven't tried mine and what I've read makes me leery. I don't heal as fast as I used to!Spoke length does not change so long as you are going from a cross-4 pattern to another cross-4 pattern. Raleigh ran 40 x4 at that time. The Schwinn wheels generally 36 x4 for the lightweights. The x4 pattern reduces the effect of the hub flange on the spoke length needed. With x2 or x3 wheels, you'd probably need a different length spoke.
The one saving grace is the SW debacle took place in the time before extensive mass tort litigation. The SW's failure mode can be particularly dangerous because it can suddenly "let go". If the rider is standing on the pedals to sprint or climb up a steep hill, that often means a trip over the handlebars and then to the hospital. If the rider is lucky, there will be a feeling of looseness in the drive train just before the hub cams out of gear. This offers a chance to lay off the pressure and allow the hub to cam out without disrupting the rider too much. I've been lucky enough that every time an SW has failed on me, I noticed that brief "loose" feeling in the drive train and laid off the pedals just before it let go. I'm sure there are SW hubs still out there that work properly, but I just will not trust one of these hubs given the failures I've experienced with them. I've tried to make them work (short of adding the springs mentioned on Sheldon's site), but I've given up on them.
The cam-out can happen from so many different causes that these hubs can be very frustrating. If the oil is too thick (including if it thickens due to cold weather), the pawls will not seat properly. Old gunk in the hubs also prevents the pawls from seating. If the pawls are worn, they may not engage properly even if they seat. If the cog is changed to a larger cog, the increased force can exacerbate a borderline hub where the pawls may or may not seat properly.
I generally remove the SW hubs by unscrewing the spoke nipples and saving the old spokes, if possible. Sometimes you need a "faded" old spoke to fix a wheel and you don't want a single, shiny spoke on the wheel. Sometimes they're too rusty or damaged to save though. I have no issue re-using old spokes if they're in good shape, especially the Raleigh stainless "R" spokes, which were kind of marvel of durability in their day.
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