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Barn Find Track Bike

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In my original post did you offer an explanation of how I might have removed the rust and flaking paint and still ensure the frame longevity? Are you familiar with other restorations of Dick Powers frames? If there were a way to remove the rust and preserve the integrity of the frame itself I would have surely proceeded along that path. What’s done is done and I am satisfied with the results.
Thanks for your input. Additional “constructive” criticism is appreciated.
 
Great tip, thanks John.
View attachment 2141689

View attachment 2141690
Curious, what is that piece do next to the cabinet, behind the bike?
Lugged frames are Boss, to look at. You might as well "Finish" it.
If you are referring to the round, robotic object on the floor it is a robotic kitty litter box. I had limited space for indoor pics. What you are seeing is glimpses of my laundry room.
 
Nice old bike.

On any bike with a three piece "cottered" crank set the crank cotter pins need to be installed in opposing directions. Doing so, will keep both the right and left crank arms in a straight line.

John
Thanks John. I was not aware and did not check. Since you pointed this out I will make sure to follow your advice when the bike is disassembled for maintenance and rebuilt. Did you happen to notice if the cotter pins were installed in the manner you recommended?
Thanks for your input.
 
Thanks John. I was not aware and did not check. Since you pointed this out I will make sure to follow your advice when the bike is disassembled for maintenance and rebuilt. Did you happen to notice if the cotter pins were installed in the manner you recommended?
Thanks for your input.

The reason it was mentioned was because they ARE positioned incorrectly in your posted photos.

Please use a Crank Cotter Press when removing and installing the pins. They are a very soft metal. The nuts and studs are just for 'locking purposes" and will easily strip if you use the nuts in an effort to "pull the pins in tight".

What rims and tires do you have in mind for this restoration? Will they be "tied"?

John
 
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The tires on the bike are a mixed pair. The rear is Kenda the front is Schwinn. Believe or not the tubes hold air. The tires are a bit cracked but they have been on this bike for 30 plus years.
I plan to stick with the rims on the bike.
Do you have recommendations for the tires?
27 x 1 3/4
 
The tires on the bike are a mixed pair. The rear is Kenda the front is Schwinn. Believe or not the tubes hold air. The tires are a bit cracked but they have been on this bike for 30 plus years.
I plan to stick with the rims on the bike.
Do you have recommendations for the tires?
27 x 1 3/4

Sure, I have lots of ideas on how to spend your money. There's no tire size 27 x 1 3/4.

It sounds like you want to respect the vintage history of the bike and the builder.

Get rid of the Japanese steel Araya rims that are the wrong size for the bike. Replace them with original wood rims, or wood filled rims like would have been on it originally. Tie and solder the spokes because the old wood rims do not have much side load strength. Be on the lookout for a pair of old sew up tires to complete the vintage original restoration. No Schrader Valve's, Presta. If you cannot go with original parts on the wheel build, at least use 700c for the correct diameter.

If you plan to leave the bare metal finish on the frame, just spray some Gibb's Oil on it and wipe the excess off. I drove a bare steel hot rod for ten years with only Gibb's Oil on it.

John
 
Typo on tire size.
27 x 1 1/4 is what’s on the bike but I’m sure you knew that.
Other than rims and tires are the other components you would change to match the vintage of the frame?
 
Typo on tire size.
27 x 1 1/4 is what’s on the bike but I’m sure you knew that.
Other than rims and tires are the other components you would change to match the vintage of the frame?
Yes, if you're going to the efforts and expense to restore this bike, and it sounds like you have researched the builder and the brand history, make sure when you build the new wheel set that you do so with a front hub that is of the same vintage as the bike. The front hub on your bike is a Wald generic replacement hub like you would find on a department store bike. Half the fun in restoring anything is what I call "the chase" in tracking down the appropriate parts.

John
 
It sounds like you know much about Dick Powers.
What’s your source of reference? Can you tell me more about him and his builds? Can you point me in the direction of learning more about him and his builds?
 
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