Hello all. I am new to Schwinn and bikes in general and I had a question about the FF system. My 1974 Varsity came with a FFS rear freewheel, which I do believe is incorrect. My question is do I have to change out the entire rear hub or can I just replace the freewheel? Thank you for any information I can get. And im sorry if this seems like a dumb question.
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Ff Systems ?
- Thread starter Jtm420
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Schwinn Sales West
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
The rear freewheel on a front freewheel system was a special Shimano friction freewheel. It had fiber spacers that allowed some freewheeling as a safety measure in case a vital body part go stuck under the moving chain. To my old memory, I do not remember anything that was special or different about the rear hub, so my guess is that you could remove and replace it with a normal ratcheting freewheel if you're removing the entire FF system. Do not use the FF System "rear freewheel" on a normal derailer system. It will not freely freewheel, and when the rider stops pedaling it would suck the rear derailer into the spokes.
I believe the bike was also equipped with the Shimano Positron Shifting System which worked together with the FF System. It may be different and weird, but it was a good working and bullet proof system specifically designed for kids, and adults that were intimidated by a normal derailer system. It was popular on the Schwinn Suburban models.
John
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
It's not a dumb question if you haven't had one apart before, they're odd for sure. They remove just like a regular threaded freewheel. Notice the splines down inside for the removal tool, I believe you will need to remove the locknut/spacer from the axle to fit the tool into those splines.
Each cog except for the smallest has its own set of pawls, but it is cogs riding directly on the body, no bearings. So these were not intended to constantly freewheel, just as a safety mechanism.
The front freewheel includes the crank race and is threaded onto the crank. It removes with a 4 splined tool that I've honestly not seen before. I have removed one with a punch and hammer before, it might be easier to just replace the crank/sprocket assembly with one from a donor if it's seized or you want to reuse them.
Each cog except for the smallest has its own set of pawls, but it is cogs riding directly on the body, no bearings. So these were not intended to constantly freewheel, just as a safety mechanism.
The front freewheel includes the crank race and is threaded onto the crank. It removes with a 4 splined tool that I've honestly not seen before. I have removed one with a punch and hammer before, it might be easier to just replace the crank/sprocket assembly with one from a donor if it's seized or you want to reuse them.
Thank you very much for the info.
I do believe so. I bought it as is an didnt find out untill I got it home and did some research.
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Someone was asking about this in another thread, but the info will be easier to find here for the next person that comes looking.
Interesting to see 24t and 28t on either side of the crank.
Interesting to see 24t and 28t on either side of the crank.
WillWork4Parts
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Also, one way to wake yourself up is to set forth in taking one of these apart to straighten the guard disc and forget about that #3 big @$$ spring! Lol
I guess the last one I had on the bench had a locked up 5th gear safety. Here you can see the pawls on 5th gear.
I guess the last one I had on the bench had a locked up 5th gear safety. Here you can see the pawls on 5th gear.
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