How do you guys bust rust this bad?

[Bike from the Dead]

I think that's why the guys are suggesting to plug the top of the seatpost...turn the bike upside down and you only need to fill the seat tube with a funnel from the crank hanger.
Whatever you do, don't crush that seatpost until you're ready to be dedicated to taking it to a machine shop to be drilled out or you have the patience to hacksaw the seatpost from the inside out. Once the tube is out of round any vice or pipe wrench will just crush it further and you'll be left with nothing to twist on. I always put a rod the same size as the inside diameter of the seatpost down in there to prevent crushing or ripping. Would have to cut the rounded end of the top of the post off for that too, just the tip! Lol

Yeah, I understand what they're saying now. In the comment you responded to though, I was referring to soaking the bottom bracket to free up the bearing cups. I think I need to tackle the bearing cups first, then try to remove the seat post.

I'll definitely want to soak the seat post in some penetrating fluid, but this was roughly how I planned to remove the seat post, thanks to a tip from @RustySprockets on RRB. R.S. can explain it better than me, but this is the general idea:

1. Remove seat from seat post.
2. Get a piece of all-thread long enough to travel all the way through the seat post into the bottom bracket, so I can mount the washer and nut to the end of that all-thread. The nut and washer need to be just small enough to fit inside the seat tube, but big enough to butt up against the bottom of the seat post.
3. Get a piece of tubing, one wider than the seat post I'm pulling out, but not wider than the seat tube. If I understand correctly, the spare tubing needs to be about the same diameter as the seat tube, so it can sit on top of the seat tube.
4. Put a washer and nut that's big enough to not fit inside the spare tube on top of the spare tube, and tighten that nut to pull the seat post out of the seat tube.

If this idea doesn't work, I'll try some of the others that were shared with me. I won't try this without first letting the seat post soak for a while in whatever penetrating fluid I choose to use though.

 

[RustySprockets]

Hey stranger!

 

[GTs58]

Yeah, I understand what they're saying now. In the comment you responded to though, I was referring to soaking the bottom bracket to free up the bearing cups. I think I need to tackle the bearing cups first, then try to remove the seat post.

I'll definitely want to soak the seat post in some penetrating fluid, but this was roughly how I planned to remove the seat post, thanks to a tip from @RustySprockets on RRB. R.S. can explain it better than me, but this is the general idea:

1. Remove seat from seat post.
2. Get a piece of all-thread long enough to travel all the way through the seat post into the bottom bracket, so I can mount the washer and nut to the end of that all-thread. The nut and washer need to be just small enough to fit inside the seat tube, but big enough to butt up against the bottom of the seat post.
3. Get a piece of tubing, one wider than the seat post I'm pulling out, but not wider than the seat tube. If I understand correctly, the spare tubing needs to be about the same diameter as the seat tube, so it can sit on top of the seat tube.
4. Put a washer and nut that's big enough to not fit inside the spare tube on top of the spare tube, and tighten that nut to pull the seat post out of the seat tube.
View attachment 1573246
If this idea doesn't work, I'll try some of the others that were shared with me. I won't try this without first letting the seat post soak for a while in whatever penetrating fluid I choose to use though.

I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.

 

[WillWork4Parts]

I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to get even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.

Yeah, at the very least there's a lot of weld slag down there at the seat tube joint. A stack of thick washers that have been ground to the right width to fit sideways in there and turned after the weld might do it...? I'm hopeful for a method I've not tried. It's gonna be difficult to pull off, but I like the theory.

 

[RustySprockets]

It's definitely a challenge. I've been trying to brainstorm a method of grasp the post through the top, but an oval washer is the best I could come up with. That would probably require cutting away the narrow part of the post. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[Bike from the Dead]

I don't remember "ever" seeing a hole large enough in a Schwinn to even get a washer thru the BB seat mast joint. I doubt this method is even in the cards.

Yeah, at the very least there's a lot of weld slag down there at the seat tube joint. A stack of thick washers that have been ground to the right width to fit sideways in there and turned after the weld might do it...? I'm hopeful for a method I've not tried. It's gonna be difficult to pull off, but I like the theory.

I was worried about that. I can look and see if that's the case on my frame, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is an issue.

It's definitely a challenge. I've been trying to brainstorm a method of grasp the post through the top, but an oval washer is the best I could come up with. That would probably require cutting away the narrow part of the post. I'm open to suggestions.

I'm open to suggestions as well. I might have to use one of the other methods that folks here and on RRB suggested. Still, soaking the seat post/tube in penetrating fluid for a week or two couldn't hurt, at least once the weather starts to warm up here. I don't know what temperature these fluids freeze at, but some of the lows for next week will be in the teens, which sounds too risky for now.

 

[GTs58]

Why mess with a penetrant. That condition of that bike is past that stage. Does kroil or PB Blaster attack and dissolve or remove the rust? Seriously, Babah says soak it with acid and be done with it. Once the item is soak with some Kroil or other crap the acid will not be very effective.

 

[rustystone2112]

10% molasses and water and let soak , it could take a week or a month but I guarantee it will come out. Here is a rack and a couple lights i soaked for about 3 - 4 weeks and as you can see every spec of rust is gone . The pictures of the rack legs and mount that look brighter is from a wash in phosphoric acid after removing all the rust with the molasses and water ( you don’t have to do this step if you don’t want to it just brightens up the metal ). The pictures of the rack where it looks a little darker is from a clear coat spray to keep it from rusting again .
First you need to wash the frame to remove all grease and oil , this is a water based rust removal and it won’t penetrate through grease and oil

 

[Rivnut]

I pulled a really stuck seat on a Schwinn post one time by drilling the hole in the end a little bigger, tapping it for a bolt, running the bolt down, then getting a hold on the bolt with a BA slide hammer. It took a few attempts but once the rust was broken loose, it came out fairly easy. You cannot be timid.

 

[49autocycledeluxe]

here are a few things a person needs when taking parts off a stuck bike. first a big giant vice bolted to the floor. second would be a metal bar or thick wall tubing that fits in the gooseneck, along with other assorted bars to twist what will twist, once you get that stem twisting you are half way there to remove it from the fork. cutting the stem does not make it easier to get out. 3rd is PB Blaster. some times you need to apply the PB blaster every day for a week.

I recently bought a girls frame and parts for the fork and dogleg crank. never saw a bike so rusted stuck, yet I was able to get everything salvageable off. the bearings and cups looked a lot like yours.