When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What bike did you work on today?
- Thread starter OldSkipTooth
- Start date
#eBayPartner Most Recent BUY IT NOW Items Listed on eBay
WillWork4Parts
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Practiced a little more with the Fork Gauge.
Guessing this SuperSport had been stepped on with the front wheel off, fork has a pretty obvious bend.
Got the discrepant leg back in place on the X axis, then had to work on the Y axis by bending it just at where the taper stopped.
I didn't take a picture of it, but bending there brought the Z axis(length of fork) back where it needed to be too.
Finished it off with a little dropout realignment.
Guessing this SuperSport had been stepped on with the front wheel off, fork has a pretty obvious bend.
WillWork4Parts
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Next up was this 30s Double Bar. I rode it for a bit years ago, but took it apart because of the hard pull it had. You definitely couldn't let go of the handlebars on this one, thought for sure it was the fork blades.
It sits pretty straight in the gauge, with just a little offset. I flipped it 180 degrees in the gauge and the small offset flipped to the other side like I expected.
This is something I didn't expect though....
...a 1/16" difference in length at the crown. What the heck?!?
So, I put it back in the bike and you can see the uneven gaps in between the lower cup and the top of the crown. A straight edge sat on the side of the steer tube showed me that the steer tube is bent side to side, not sure how to address that.
Noticed this too, the crown of the fork hits the down tube on one side only.
Even left a dent/wear mark...
Has anyone else ever had to address a steer tube bent to the side??
This is something I didn't expect though....
So, I put it back in the bike and you can see the uneven gaps in between the lower cup and the top of the crown. A straight edge sat on the side of the steer tube showed me that the steer tube is bent side to side, not sure how to address that.
Noticed this too, the crown of the fork hits the down tube on one side only.
Even left a dent/wear mark...
Has anyone else ever had to address a steer tube bent to the side??
Wolfmac
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
I have two fork sets with the same issue. They both have good paint so going about it is tricky. I have a couple of ideas. But haven’t jigged up for it yet. I’m sure you know if the steer tube is bent right at the top of the crown then it becomes problematic since you can’t use the fork legs to get any leverage without just creating new bends below the crown. I intend to turn a close fitting bar stock on the lathe to insert the length of the steer tube. Then clamp the exposed end of the rod into the bench vise. I’m thinking of using a come-a-long strapped around the crown and anchored to the other side of the bench. Only need to move it smidge right
Sven
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
I dont know if this wheel was ever rebuilt or not. I did notice the spokes were 1.6mm , double butted. I dont know if that was the norm then or not. Ill check the front wheel later
Yeah...I had the TV on as well probably watching some groofy videos on Youtube. Beer and TV.
My conclusion...TV-bad..beer-good.
WillWork4Parts
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Yeah, I've got some 7/8"(very off spec I might add) round bar that I've whittled down to fit in the steer tube. I've used that to help with fwd to aft bends before. With these older steer tubes, rust will have to be reamed from the sidewall of the tube to fit the round bar...then there's the issue of the smaller ID reinforcement sleeve brazed in at the bottom...and it's depth I haven't tried to measure yet. I'd like to save the finish on this fork too. I'll have to sit and scheme up a plate with 4 bolts to sandwich around the crown, and then a way to fit it in the hydraulic press, perhaps attach a ratchet strap between the round bar and the side of the press after that.I have two fork sets with the same issue. They both have good paint so going about it is tricky. I have a couple of ideas. But haven’t jigged up for it yet. I’m sure you know if the steer tube is bent right at the top of the crown then it becomes problematic since you can’t use the fork legs to get any leverage without just creating new bends below the crown. I intend to turn a close fitting bar stock on the lathe to insert the length of the steer tube. Then clamp the exposed end of the rod into the bench vise. I’m thinking of using a come-a-long strapped around the crown and anchored to the other side of the bench. Only need to move it smidge right
This still doesn't explain how the length from the drop outs appear the same(square) in the fixture, yet the lengths from the fixture to the crown are different from side to side. I may need to make another T shaped gauge to help better understand what I'm going to end up with after I straighten the steer tube. Are your forks by chance Snyder built too???
It's sounding more like a project for another day......
Wolfmac
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Mine are both Schwinn truss forks which makes it tricky to harness the crown. I too will need to fab something to both isolate the legs from bending at the crown and provide a way to secure the tensioning mechanism. Lot of work for a set of forks
Sportyworty
Wore out three sets of tires already!
Got the tank and carrier painted and mounted on the 36’ Iver Johnson. Unfortunately the water slide decals literally disintegrated. Will have to come back to that issue later. Trying to get the bike ready for a long ride in Victoria BC this weekend.
Sportyworty
Wore out three sets of tires already!
I think that was the problem but first time playing with water slide decals. Thanks for weighing in Wolfmac.
Similar threads
