1952 Schwinn Hornet Marin-ish/Casual-ish style Klunker build

[sunvalleylaw]

Yeah you need to use spoke head washers, 13g spokes, and Sapim reduction nipples for the best fit. Alternatively you could drill out spoke holes a little and just use 12g spokes through and through. I don’t remember the length

so the BBP says I should order that stuff as it is more specific than what they have. Do you have a good source for me?

 

[Miq]

You need to figure out the correct spoke length for your set up. Then you can start to look for who has that length in stock or find someone with a spoke cutting/threading machine to make them for you. Id imagine the hubs and wheels you are using are going to result in a standard length spoke but you need to figure it out. There are a bunch of online spoke length calculators and many of them already have common hubs and wheels as drop downs in the calculator inputs. See if you can find one that has these hubs and wheels already built in.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

You need to figure out the correct spoke length for your set up. Then you can start to look for who has that length in stock or find someone with a spoke cutting/threading machine to make them for you. Id imagine the hubs and wheels you are using are going to result in a standard length spoke but you need to figure it out. There are a bunch of online spoke length calculators and many of them already have common hubs and wheels as drop downs in the calculator inputs. See if you can find one that has these hubs and wheels already built in.

Ok, starting with the Sheldon Brown one.

 

[Pondo]

Your klunk is looking good Steve! I'm looking forward to seeing your wheel building progress. It's something I still need to learn.

 

[Cooper S.]

so the BBP says I should order that stuff as it is more specific than what they have. Do you have a good source for me?

Sapim’s website

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Dry fitted the thumb shifter, the brake levers, and put on some KKT pedals. Not exactly period Correct, but close enough for the vibe. No purity tests. The left brake lever is bent down a little bit so I have to mount it twisted up higher than I like but I’ll either just deal with it or look for a better brake lever along the way in the parts bin at BBP.

 

[Intense One]

Hi, I'm a new guy and this is my first project. I started over at RatRod, but started shopping over here so figured I would also join. Always wanted to do some Klunker build, maybe kinda like the Marin bikes, particularly similar to one of Gary Fisher's (though I am not worried about being pre-war) and kinda like, meaning close enough and not exact. But also, kinda want to keep a more vintage vibe, and maybe use the original fenders when it is wet. The use will be easy cruising around town with maybe some easy dirt cruising/klunking on the nearby dirt roads and easy near town trails. Here is my platform.

View attachment 1836651

Here is the inspiration, one of Gary Fisher's '40's bikes, in this photo from Charlie Kelly's book:

View attachment 1836652


My current thoughts are that I'm not going to use the skip tooth, and will probably use a 36t cloverleaf the seller has. Any of these original parts will be saved in case I want to put it back to stock, or if after using it a while, I am sure I want to keep it as a Klunker, I may pass them on to others looking for parts for a more stock restoration.

In the rear, was thinking about trying to affix a 1x9 or so derailleur (was thinking just getting a modern Deore) with an emergency hanger, but don't really think I want to have to bend the frame to fit a MTB hub. I am picking up some S/A drum brake hubs here from @frampton Will probably use repro Honda brake levers. I am also figuring that as long as I keep it a 1x, I can still use the chainguard, which I think I will do for now. Will have to see if I need something in there as a chainguide and if so, would like to fit it under the chainguard.

Will use newer tires. Probably Rene Herse or some WTB's that roll on pavement well but can go on a gravel road or easy trail. Won't do any hard core mountainbiking or even longer gravel rides on this. I have modern bikes for that. A little klunking around town that may include some dirt will be about what it will see.

Will likely just use the current fork, stem and handlebar. May replace the grips. Will use a plain Jane thumb shifter. Not sure if I will use big block style old pedals or just throw on some flats I have. I may leave fenders when it is wet and pull them as summer comes on in earnest. Will play around with that. As said, will keep the old parts I don't use.

Will probably find a Brooks saddle to put on and keep that old messenger saddle or sell it.

I will get a period correct head badge of some kind after looking for a while. And I will keep the Patina, though I may protect it and brighten it with some clear wipeable poly as I saw a guy do on the same paint scheme in a youtube vid somewhere.

This is all in the contemplative/planning stage. Will go pick up the bike in Portland in a week or three.

Give me any and all thoughts and advice for me to consider. Thanks for letting me join!

Cheers,

Steve

That’s a really slack head tube on Gary Fisher’s chrome bike!

 

[Intense One]

That’s a really slack head tube on Gary Fisher’s chrome bike!

I’d chop the rear fender a few inches past the fender support to give it a racy look.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Second application of boiled linseed oil for good measure. Old wheels put back on so I can rack it and Hall over to BoUse you in a couple days. Not much more I can do here until I get it over to the bicycle co-op. I guess I can start tearing down the other wheels, maybe I’ll do that tomorrow. Going to go ride my other bike around a short mountain bike loop in a break in the weather