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Haverford Black Beauty
- Thread starter mopargeek
- Start date
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I will compare it to my other driver.
You are right, it is not the correct driver. I have a good model A but i need to change my gear to a. 1/2" pitch. I was reading a thread about removing the lock ring. Someone said the cogs are interchangeable between the ND model A and model D. If anyone can verify this please chime in.
I got the fork out. Used a penetrant called Kroil. Truss rod bolts came out without using any heat. Looking into the head tube shows no other badge holes, so this bike started as a Black Beauty. The bad, the steerer tube is bent and bulged out from overtightening the stem I guess. I have a couple donors I can weld in. Also, the lower fork bearing is bad and the fork crown race doesn't look too good either. My Miami girls bike donor has a larger diameter head tube. This BB headtube has the same I.D. as 50's Schwinn, but uses a smaller bearing.
Archie Sturmer
Riding a '38 Autocycle Deluxe
Yes, ND cogs are interchangeable between models A, C, and D; (they are an oversize version of about 1+3/8").
#73 has 17 balls at 5/32" (one size smaller than 3/16") with an inside cup diameter of 1+15/32" (and not made as new anymore?).
thecabe.com
#73 has 17 balls at 5/32" (one size smaller than 3/16") with an inside cup diameter of 1+15/32" (and not made as new anymore?).
Paper Archive: Catalogs, Instructions, Schematics. Non-Discussion Thread | General Discussion About Old Bicycles
A couple of bearing charts showing what each maker used. First from Chicago Cycle Supply 1938. Second from 1950 catalog.
thecabe.com
Yes, I found out they are aftermarket.Yes, ND cogs are interchangeable between models A, C, and D; (they are an oversize version of about 1+3/8").
#73 has 17 balls at 5/32" (one size smaller than 3/16") with an inside cup diameter of 1+15/32" (and not made as new anymore?).
Paper Archive: Catalogs, Instructions, Schematics. Non-Discussion Thread | General Discussion About Old Bicycles
A couple of bearing charts showing what each maker used. First from Chicago Cycle Supply 1938. Second from 1950 catalog.
Today was a good day. Cut off the steerer tube. I used a 50's schwinn girls head tube to graft on the non original bent fork. When I join tubes together, Ie make a solid plug that I turn with my lathe to go in between the two tubes. I also drill 1/4" holes 180 degrees apart on each joining tube. I leave the tubes roughly 1/8" apart. The holes are a plug weld for added strength and the gap between the tubes allows for filler weld to solidify the joint. I nailed the length. Left a few turns on the top nut to tighten up. After riding everything settles and needs tightened up. Taped out the truss rods, so now the 5/16 - 24 go right in. Used a weird combo of bearings. My Miami girls bike gave up her fork race, bearings, and top race. The upper and lower bearing cups are 1950's Schwinn. I tried every combo. The 100 year old bearings were the smoothest. Same bearings in the crankset. Smooth.
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