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It seems logical to me that if the ends are soldered on originally and hold against the applied pressure then shortening the cable and resoldering should work just fine. Assuming that the soldering is done properly.
That exact part (HKS770) was the first thing I was almost settled on when I first thought about shortening the cable. But it doesn't look like the end of the cable now. It is larger and the barrel would be aligned sideways/90 degrees from the end of the cable as it is now.
That pic of finished cable end sitting on brake arm interface doesn't look correct. I think you will find the barrel anchor bolts, knarps etc to be more suitable and right size will cradle into the crescent for secure fit. I have barrel anchor bolt on my drum brake and works fine. Plus as River said allows for cable stretch adjustment.
I have a friend from California, an older than me guy that has had motorcycle shops all over the country and ran with Arlen Ness when he started building Choppers.
Some of this guys creations are Incredible!
He showed me how he solders his cables and they look much better than mine used to on the 1980s. I will put the cable build into my thread 1962 Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike. I am not to that point, nor do I have the parts yet, or I would do it now.
Rob
I was thinking most of those things. Also I have done my share of soldering, although only electronics/AV equipment, and I can't imagine it holding up to the kind of stress this end of the cable will be under.
Truthfully, the ends on basically every motorcycle control cable are soldered on, but by a factory who has the equipment to do it right. It can be done correctly at home and will be the strongest option if it's done right, but again...if the cable isnt PERFECTLY clean, the solder joint will fail sooner than later and you're stranded....we did this on a clutch cable for a CB650 about a decade ago and it broke within a week, thankfully not too far from my house. Although the force on a motorcycle clutch arm is going to be SIGNIFICANTLY more than a bicycle drum brake.
That pic of finished cable end sitting on brake arm interface doesn't look correct. I think you will find the barrel anchor bolts, knarps etc to be more suitable and right size will cradle into the crescent for secure fit. I have barrel anchor bolt on my drum brake and works fine. Plus as River said allows for cable stretch adjustment.
It doesn't look correct, but that is the cable Sturmey Archer ships with that hub. It is what they, via that fact, want me to use. But yeah, I think a barrel bolt will work just as well. It looks like it will fit in there perfectly.
After look more closely at the picture(s) they show the end incorrectly installed in the brake arm, the Barrel is on your cable if you look between the brake arm and the threaded cable stop, you should be able to heat the original end with a torch and remove it from the cable then trim cable and housing to the correct length, and then re-solder it making sure the barrel is between end and cable stop, as it is now.
Order the ones off eBay from practical cycles they are the proper knarps (pinch bolts) and will fit your brake drums properly
I'm still waiting for mine to arrive and they are not easy to locate .
I also ordered the cable adjusters so I can make my own custom cables .
I have them on one of my other bikes that I had to extend the cable on .
They have very reasonable combined shipping charges but shipping is by mail and slow .
Here are some other examples that don't fit
These are the type from practical cycles and are the correct Sturmey Archer parts .
This one is the last one I could get where I live .
I could not find these for sale on line anywhere in North America except the ones on eBay .
If you need any Sturmey parts I would stock up and take advantage of the combined shipping rates .
All universal brake cable comes with two ends for the two different style brake levers. The one that doesn't fit your lever is cut off. That's the truth, whole truth and nothing but the truth!
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