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1967 Schwinn Panther
- Thread starter mannymota46
- Start date
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GTs58
I'm the Wiz, and nobody beats me!
I search both for a few pages and gave up. If you go to the top tool bar left side and click on Find Threads, it will bring up all the treads you started. Then just post the link for us.
Stuck stem, need suggestions | Vintage Lightweight Bicycles
I have been trying to get an aluminum stem out of a steel steerer tube. The bike is a 84 Raleigh Competition. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster trying to get it to move side to side and hitting on it with hammer with a block of wood as a buffer. I have been working on it for a couple of...
thecabe.com
Schwinndemonium
Wore out three sets of tires already!
Partially thread the stem bolt back in and take a small section of 2X4 place it on the bolt head and give it a few hard whacks with a hammer, and I mean HARD. It will break loose. If that does not break the stem loose, take the bolt back out , stick the 2X4 on top of the stem itself and whack it really hard with the hammer. This is how I delt with seized stems in steerer tubes over the years.
mannymota46
Look Ma, No Hands!
Success! I appreciate all of you who have posted with suggestions and links to prior discussions - I tried them all except the Pine Sol, and that’s because there was none in the house and I got it unstuck before buying some - but I will use that in the future for sure.
At the end of the day the key was my neighbor came back from vacation and getting access to his really good work bench and vise set up and then threading the bolt in about halfway and using some hardwood on top to take the hammer blows. After about 5 strikes we heard it move and then a few shots to the side of the stem and free at last. You can see in the picture there isn’t much rust so kind of a mystery as to why it was so tough to get out.
I’ll be posting the complete bike all shined up later this week.
At the end of the day the key was my neighbor came back from vacation and getting access to his really good work bench and vise set up and then threading the bolt in about halfway and using some hardwood on top to take the hammer blows. After about 5 strikes we heard it move and then a few shots to the side of the stem and free at last. You can see in the picture there isn’t much rust so kind of a mystery as to why it was so tough to get out.
I’ll be posting the complete bike all shined up later this week.
Last edited:
Oilit
Cruisin' on my Bluebird
Those parts look very clean. I'm with you, it's hard to figure out why it was stuck, but at least patience and persistence finally won the day!Success! I appreciate all of you who have posted with suggestions and links to prior discussions - I tried them all except the Pine Sol, and that’s because there was none in the house and I got it unstuck before buying some - but I will use that in the future for sure.
At the end of the day the key was my neighbor came back from vacation and getting access to his really good work bench and vise set up and then threading the bolt in about halfway and using some hardwood on top to take the hammer blows. After about 5 strikes we heard it move and then a few shots to the side of the stem and free at last. You can see in the picture there isn’t much rust so kind of a mystery as to why it was so tough to get out.
I’ll be posting the complete bike all shined up later this week.
View attachment 2233876
mannymota46
Look Ma, No Hands!
Here is the 1967 coppertone Panther all cleaned up and back to stock. Only thing I have left to do is to get the horn working again. This was a fun project for me. You can see how I got it in the first post in this thread - the bike was missing the rear rack and had the wrong front light and the tires weren’t original. The rack I found was pretty clean and the Delta light I found is in amazing shape and works after a little clean up on my part. I also found some Q4 of 1967 Superior whitewalls that look like they were never ridden on - I think I like the look of the Westwind whitewalls better but I’ll leave it like this for now.
A few notes and questions for you all
1 - when I cleaned and serviced the rear hub it still had that smear/glob of yellow factory grease which I always find cool. But am I the only who thinks that factory grease must not have been very well applied if it’s still there in a glob 60+ years later rather than all up in the bearings and such?
2 - I’ve had a bunch of the later “Made in Japan” ball lights with the side markers but this is the first Made in USA one I’ve had and the difference in quality in the build is very noticeable. It’s a really cool piece all by itself.
3 - anyone know the correct sequence for the fender and rack braces on the back? I copied the black Jaguar that was posted recently in this forum - bottom fender brace inside frame and then outside the top fender brace and last the rack brace. No matter which way I do it there is no room to use the washer - anyone know if this is correct?
A few notes and questions for you all
1 - when I cleaned and serviced the rear hub it still had that smear/glob of yellow factory grease which I always find cool. But am I the only who thinks that factory grease must not have been very well applied if it’s still there in a glob 60+ years later rather than all up in the bearings and such?
2 - I’ve had a bunch of the later “Made in Japan” ball lights with the side markers but this is the first Made in USA one I’ve had and the difference in quality in the build is very noticeable. It’s a really cool piece all by itself.
3 - anyone know the correct sequence for the fender and rack braces on the back? I copied the black Jaguar that was posted recently in this forum - bottom fender brace inside frame and then outside the top fender brace and last the rack brace. No matter which way I do it there is no room to use the washer - anyone know if this is correct?
