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Bendix Sturmey Archer Shimano 24 and 28 tooth rear sprockets

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Price
$25.00
Payment Terms
Paypal or a good check
Location
Ash Grove MO
Zipcode
65604
I believe the Sachs branded hubs came after the Fichtel and Sachs branded hubs. It’s was the same company until the bike component business was sold to SRAM in the 90s
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24 and or 28 tooth rear cogs to fit Bendix or Sturmey Archer coaster hubs with the three dog spline. I laser cut these from 11 gauge stainless steel and put a brushed finish on them. Only fit 1/8 x 1/2 inch chains. The Sweetheart is ONLY IN 28 TOOTH.

Yeh, they aren't antique but they can make pedaling the old classics a lot easier! I have a 28 tooth on my old Schwinn with a 46 up front. I cruise at an easy 8mph with easy effort on the pedals. I can even climb a moderate hill with out standing up! (that's good for a guy like me with bad knees)

$25.00 bucks shipped to the lower 48 states

Contact me via Email is best. [email protected]

If this is an inappropriate item due to being 'reproduction/new' , please have admins take it down.

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Wow, these look great, and very high quality.

For those commenting about / clamoring for a 1-in pitch option (and anybody who is willing to listen)...

A 1-in pitch sprocket is not simply a 1/2 in pitch sprocket that is missing every other tooth.

I tried that, and even bought some of those black Ichi bike cogs on eBay.

The tooth geometry and spread and base circle diameter is WAY different. You can see it when you put a correct inch pitch cog on top of a 1/2-in pitch cog with every other tooth removed. There's actually no comparison.

Sure, you can get a 1-in pitch chain to go around in circles on a one half inch pitch sprocket with every other tooth missing, and you can actually ride them.

But what ends up happening is that your entire pedaling load is leaning on one tooth and one chain roller at any given time, rather than being spread over the teeth and rollers that should be in contact with each other.

The inefficiency and noise and chain wear that will result is no bueno. And 99.9% of riders out there will already be using chains that are quite worn and stretched, amplifying the problem.

And then when you back pedal to hit the coaster brake, the chain sloshes quite a distance before it engages the back side of the next tooth.

How do I know this?

I have a design and engineering background, and had contemplated offering very large 1-in pitch / skip tooth rear cogs for Shimano hubs.

Went as far as making prototypes, that were even completely dished and recessed inboard, to bring the chain line back to where it should be with the significantly wider multi-speed Shimano hubs.

When you closely examine inch pitch sprockets, and how a chain interacts with it, on an engineering level, you'll see how big the difference is.

So I suppose what I'm basically saying is, if the OP is serious about making some inch pitch cogs, do your homework, closely examine some actual inch pitch cogs, gain a true understanding of the tooth profile, geometry, and spacing, and the base circle diameter (which is larger than the equivalent one half inch pitch cog).

Then, when you think you have it right, take an authentic inch pitch chain and lay it on the sprocket and examine it under a magnifier to see that many or most of the chain rollers are making contact with many of the cog teeth at the same time.
 
This comment is interesting because it is exactly what Mike and I are currently discussing about these sprockets. In order to make them perfect enough to ensure every tooth on the new cog equally contacts every roller on the 1" pitch chain, we are testing and measuring very carefully, looking closely at them together on and off the bike to confirm 100% contact. So to have Bikes Guru's very true observations are timely in the vetting process. Mike wants to get them right or he won't offer them.
One more thing as important to remember here is that running a stretched, one inch pitch chain with his new cog will also result in tooth/roller contact on only one or two teeth at a time when under power or braking. This might wear the cogs' teeth quickly, especially if made of a softer metal.⚡
My riding experience regarding modified cogs to work with 1" has been positive for the most part because the metal in the sturmey cog is so hard the teeth don't wear, even after a ton of miles. Ichi's are loud and cheap. When this new specially designed cog is run with a new chain it is sure to last forever. The cog I have been recently test-riding is a pre-production cog with an un~stretched Diamond chain and it is very, very quiet.
So look soon for the best alternative to all of the others....
 
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Wow, these look great, and very high quality.

For those commenting about / clamoring for a 1-in pitch option (and anybody who is willing to listen)...

A 1-in pitch sprocket is not simply a 1/2 in pitch sprocket that is missing every other tooth.

I tried that, and even bought some of those black Ichi bike cogs on eBay.

The tooth geometry and spread and base circle diameter is WAY different. You can see it when you put a correct inch pitch cog on top of a 1/2-in pitch cog with every other tooth removed. There's actually no comparison.

Sure, you can get a 1-in pitch chain to go around in circles on a one half inch pitch sprocket with every other tooth missing, and you can actually ride them.

But what ends up happening is that your entire pedaling load is leaning on one tooth and one chain roller at any given time, rather than being spread over the teeth and rollers that should be in contact with each other.

The inefficiency and noise and chain wear that will result is no bueno. And 99.9% of riders out there will already be using chains that are quite worn and stretched, amplifying the problem.

And then when you back pedal to hit the coaster brake, the chain sloshes quite a distance before it engages the back side of the next tooth.

How do I know this?

I have a design and engineering background, and had contemplated offering very large 1-in pitch / skip tooth rear cogs for Shimano hubs.

Went as far as making prototypes, that were even completely dished and recessed inboard, to bring the chain line back to where it should be with the significantly wider multi-speed Shimano hubs.

When you closely examine inch pitch sprockets, and how a chain interacts with it, on an engineering level, you'll see how big the difference is.

So I suppose what I'm basically saying is, if the OP is serious about making some inch pitch cogs, do your homework, closely examine some actual inch pitch cogs, gain a true understanding of the tooth profile, geometry, and spacing, and the base circle diameter (which is larger than the equivalent one half inch pitch cog).

Then, when you think you have it right, take an authentic inch pitch chain and lay it on the sprocket and examine it under a magnifier to see that many or most of the chain rollers are making contact with many of the cog teeth at the same time.
This... THIS is why I want to bring back the term Twin Roller that was used to describe this chain so many years ago.

PXL_20250218_155606600~2.jpg
It really is that much more different than just the pitch in comparison to other chain standards. Enough so that it deserves it's own unique name.
 
This comment is interesting because it is exactly what Mike and I are currently discussing about these sprockets. In order to make them perfect enough to ensure every tooth on the new cog equally contacts every roller on the 1" pitch chain, we are testing and measuring very carefully, looking closely at them together on and off the bike to confirm 100% contact. So to have Bikes Guru's very true observations are timely in the vetting process. Mike wants to get them right or he won't offer them.
One more thing as important to remember here is that running a stretched, one inch pitch chain with his new cog will also result in tooth/roller contact on only one or two teeth at a time when under power or braking. This might wear the cogs' teeth quickly, especially if made of a softer metal.⚡
My riding experience regarding modified cogs to work with 1" has been positive for the most part because the metal in the sturmey cog is so hard the teeth don't wear, even after a ton of miles. Ichi's are loud and cheap. When this new specially designed cog is run with a new chain it is sure to last forever. The cog I have been recently test-riding is a pre-production cog with an un~stretched Diamond chain and it is very, very quiet.
So look soon for the best alternative to all of the others....

Sounds like we're on the same wavelength here, and that's so cool you guys are putting in the necessary work to come out with a no-compromise cog design.

What CAD program are you working in? Or what file format can you work with and modify?

Maybe there's a way I can share my design files and the progress up to this point, and we can put our heads together on this.

I wouldn't want anything in return, other than a few 13t and 14t skip tooth cogs for my few bikes.

Here's a few pics of a really dialed-in prototype, which has the perfect amount of dish and recess for a Shimano 8-speed hub, and likely others.

It fits the hub like a glove, and the recesses clear all of the plastic covers perfectly (like a puzzle piece), while putting the chain line (back) in the most ideal position possible.

Take note of the weird 3 tooth cog in the photo below.

During testing, when I was doing chain wrap tests to determine if the tooth profile, spacing, and base circle diameter were correct, it occurred to me that I was getting a false reading, because every next tooth was a new starting point for the chain.

So the best solution I could come up with was to create a prototype with only the starting and ending tooth positions, as the chain wraps around the cog and heads back towards the front sprocket.

So in the photo diagram below, the black line (drill bit :)on the left represents the chain entry, the black line on the right represents the chain exit.

When a chain roller is firmly at position 1, and then you tightly wrap the chain all the way around, when the chain roller that lands at position 2 is exactly meeting the tooth where it should, you know your tooth profile and base circle diameter are correct. All of the chain rollers in between will hit their tooth base correctly

An interesting finding during all of my design and prototyping... I collected every possible New Departure, Bendix, Morrow skip tooth cog I could get my hands on, mostly 12t, 13t, and even a few 14t.

The difference between a New Departure, and the Bendix or Morrow of equal tooth count, they used a different base circle diameter than each other, which could have been a design discrepancy, or wear in the stamping tooling, or?

Even more surprising, from an engineering standpoint, all of these stock skip two sprockets had a base circle diameter that was smaller than ideal, which may explain why (on many of the used cogs that I had) there was always such a deep indent from the driving force of the chain into the base of the tooth.

I was finding that the base circle diameters were too small, even for NOS or very lightly used chains. Which makes it really bad for the majority of the worn chains that most everybody's using.

And part of this is probably because the original designers were working with pencil and paper, while we are working with powerful, precision software that can magnify to a millionth of an inch.

On the prototypes below, disregard the technique that was used, where a small end mill created the three spines. It was the quickest way of prototyping these, and getting a sharp enough corner for the splines to engage The hub correctly.

In real life, this center hole and splines would probably be some type of broach or EDM or ?

Anyway, that's what I got 😁

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WOW! This talk is way over my head. I just cut some sprockets on a laser and made some adjustments until they fit and worked during my 'field tests'. ( Which were/are putting the cog on a bike and riding the poop out of it, trying to make it fail). I made no measurements, and didn't use a magnifying glass. (Correction, I did measure hub diameters with some calipers). I just figure these are just toys we are playing with, and these sprockets make 'em more fun! But it is cool that you guys get so involved and detailed oriented on this stuff. That's what makes hobbies fun. And I am really thankful that this group has welcomed me. I have learned a lot from the other topics on here as well. So thank you!
 
Haha... us geeks are gonna geek out 🤣

Seems like it would be an easy test for you to tell your laser to leave out all but 3 teeth, like my weird prototype photo, so you can do a chain wrap test.

That will tell you pretty quickly if your tooth spacing is dead on
 
Ha! I must be an engineer. (God help me! lol) Thats exactly what I planned on doing!
Super cool, let me know how it goes.

When you do the chain wrap test with the 3 tooth cog, be sure to very firmly hold the chain and roller down at position 1 in my photo diagram, or else the chain roller will try to climb the tooth face, and give you a false reading
 
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