DX Klunker build by a Noob

[thewatchman]

anyone help with how I get the freewheel off this hub?

 

[Legislator]

View attachment 1871310

View attachment 1871311
anyone help with how I get the freewheel off this hub?

Since I can't see a tool interface in this picture, I would try two things:

1. Remove the axle to see if it's one of the ones that takes a very small remover tool (like a Shimano FW-20) that requires removal of the axle.
2. Grab 2 chain whips, use one on the biggest cog to stop the freewheel from freewheeling, and one on the smallest cog to see if it's a lockring.

If it's the 2nd scenario, then that would make that some sort of early freehub/freewheel hybrid, sort of like a Maillard Helicomatic. If this is the case, tread lightly with all of those parts, since you'll need them if you want to use the hub, though obviously you'll need the cogs out of the way to lace the hub into a different rim. The lack of markings visible near the cogs leads me to believe this may be the case, and if it is, and the freewheeling mechanism is smooth and crisp, I would advise against disassembling that part unless you have to, as it is usually a huge can of worms.

Seems like a fun project!

 

[thewatchman]

To be clear this is a Sachs drum brake hub that came on a Herculese Pegasus 28” wheeled 5 speed bike. All other components are Weinman Reich and the like made in Germany.

 

[Legislator]

My advice would be the same, try taking the axle out first to see if the freewheel has a "hidden" removal interface, if it does, once you get it off, get a better freewheel for use as a rider.

 

[thewatchman]

 

[thewatchman]

Took two chain whips, small ring was threaded on

 

[Legislator]

Nice job getting it all free!!!

When you do the spoke calculation for the rebuild, I'd advise using a 2x lacing pattern if you're lacing it to anything smaller in diameter than a 700c/28", because if you do 3x or 4x (which assumes 36h or greater hole count), the angle that the spoke makes where it enters the rim gets pretty extreme, and tends to lead to spoke breakage. Sapim Polyax nipples help alot with letting the spoke find a good angle leaving the rim, and they can be ordered in longer lengths than DT Swiss nipples if you want that 'moto look'.

 

[thewatchman]

Boardtrack racer version, mess around Sunday

 

[thewatchman]

Had some time to clean the chain up that came on the Hercules Pegasus, Sachs 415 it had a thick layer of axle grease smattered on it. Can anyone tell me if it’ll play nice with most cranksets ie. TA or Stronglight? So cool that it was made in West Germany

 

[WillWork4Parts]

Sachs made a pretty solid chain, I'd check for stretch/wear first before planning around using it and saying whether it's compatible or not. At the same time, new chains are pretty cheap, but I've not tried out any new ones to see how they fit the older wide tooth chainrings. If you don't have a chain check tool, I'd mock it up with the donor chainring and see how it rides/shifts. Then upgrade front chainring from a drivetrain with less than 7 speeds at the rear, that's when compatibility started to get funky.
Also as sort of stated before, the rear cogs are likely proprietary to that Sachs freehub setup. So you'll be limited to what Sachs made in that era for replacement.