Spoke nipple "pull up tool" (photos needed)

[Miq]

Spoke meter

View attachment 1800735

 

[cyclingday]

I just use a regular set of hardware store nippers and a square file, for any spokes that need to be trimmed.
But, trimming of the spokes should be minor, if at all, if the right size spokes are used to begin with.

 

[cyclingday]

This is a handy spoke and fastener gauge from Park Tool Co.

 

[cyclingday]

What would we do, without the Park Bicycle Tool Company?

Their spoke wrenches are a favorite of mine.

 

[cyclingday]

The Spokey, is a good one, if you’re building lightweight wheels with alloy nipples.

 

[cyclingday]

Here’s that nipple driver from, Bicycle Research, USA.

The key to this tool, is that it’s designed to run up the nipple to just before the point of tension, so that the spoke/nipple engagement is equal among all the spokes.
(Assuming that the correct length spokes are being used)
Notice the little tip on the screw driver blade.
When that makes contact with the spoke end, it pushes the driver out of the slot, to stop any further tightening of the nipple.

 

[cyclingday]

I have a dishing tool/gauge, but I’ve never really seen the need to use it.
The truing stand pretty much centers the rim to the axle/cone lock nuts.
If there’s any question as to how accurate the truing stand is, then just flip the wheel around, and check it with the calipers.
The Park Tool stand is dead nuts accurate, so my dishing tool is in pristine condition. Lol!

 

[Rivnut]

When our house was being built, I saw the electricians using this “rapid drive” screwdriver to install screws in light switch and socket covers. It works well on spokes but would be better it it had a tip that would center it on the nipple. Klein tools are available almost everywhere. I don’t know if Harbor Freight might have a less expensive one. For no more stress than you’ll put on it, it doesn’t have to be a quality tool.

 

[Porkchop & Applesauce]

Will these work?

 

[cyclingday]

The little tip on the end of the blade of the Research nipple driver is there to limit the amount of run up on the spoke.
The idea, is to start with an equal amount of spoke engagement, before the tension/truing, and dishing process begins.
Then it’s a give and take process between all the spokes while centering radially and laterally.
You should end up with a fairly equal amount of engagement, once the wheel has been tensioned and trued.
A rear wheel has a fair amount of dish, so the right side will show more nipple engagement than the left side.
But if you start with all the spokes with the same amount of engagement, and take from one side while giving from the other side, you’ll end up with a minimal difference between the two sides.